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Table of contents

She is short, and would be considered too stout with us, but has only the en bon point indispensable to a Turkish beauty. Her round face wore an expression of kindness and good humour, and was remarkable for a pair of fine large intelligent black eyes. Her dress was entirely composed of green silk, trimmed with crimson velvet.

This splendid ornament had previously contained the portrait of the late Sultan, who had given it to the Pasha. As well as her father being Greek, her mother was half Cretan, so that Leyla had little Turkish blood. Her account of life in the harem is not directly relevant to Crete, but her grandsons, who edited the publication of her memoirs from the French version , added other notes, including some she had made about her life in Crete. Leyla wrote of sailing to Crete, presumably aged eleven, in when her father took up his posting, on the imperial frigate Kayvan :. On the boat my father introduced to me a Christian lady whose name was Elizabeth Verf.

She did not know Turkish and I did not know any of the languages she spoke. She was a well-educated person and I was impressed with her immediately. She wrote down the Greek and French alphabets and demonstrated the sounds they represented. During the few days we were on the boat, I had learned the syllables in those languages. When we reached Crete she became my governess. She had a writing cabinet placed in a small room where I studied with her every morning. I was spending the rest of the day sewing and accepting guests. Elizabeth Verf, the Christian ladies of Crete and I would go to the sea-baths which were a little outside the town.

After we had a swim, we would find a rock on the shore to sit on and she read me Robinson Crusoe. I could not understand all of it. The whole summer went on like this. Then, in winter, my grandmother forbid me the lessons. When the old lady returned to Istanbul, we continued our lessons. The concubines in the house would often come and knock on the door wishing to relieve me — they thought I had enough and was getting bored!

Bible verse of the day

We did not mind them and continued with our lessons. I pleaded for a calligraphy teacher and my father invited Esad Efendi of Candia After reading some literary books, I started scribbling some verses myself but I never dared show them to anybody. One day my father noticed my writings and asked me to recite. He liked them and I was very happy. Gradually I began to learn to write poetry and songs. Within one year, I had learned to speak Greek and begun to understand French.

The ladies of Crete would come to me to have their dresses cut to measure. Soon after our arrival in Crete, I heard that Sadullah Bey had been married. I was very sad but tried not to think much about it. In the year eighty [the editor has put in square brackets, but must be mistaken] we went to Istanbul on leave for two months and returned.

Stelios Skopelitis. D' Apres Rodin - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART OF CRETE, Rethymno.

In eightythree [interpreted ] upon the encouragement of my father, I wrote a poem for Sultan Aziz and sent it to the Mother Sultan. Sultan Aziz liked it very much and sent me a gift of a coffee cup holder engraved with diamonds. I also sent two songs to Fatma Sultan and heard that she was very pleased. As a souvenir she sent me a medallion which I still keep. Perhaps her father would not consent to her marriage with the son of Mustafa Pasha because he would not only have been her uncle but probably considerably older.

I have come across no other writing of this period of an Ottoman woman in Crete, nor indeed that of any other woman who was not a foreign traveller. We will meet her again in Chalepa when she writes of Baroness Schwartz. As for Mlle Elizabeth, these updates have added much to her personal life, and the suggestion that she was a teacher, but not much to her political activities. And I still have not got to the bottom of those p.

But got almost nowhere. There is a file in Greek containing letters, among other material, written by Elizabeth in the s. And a diary entry of the same month and year mentions Lord Longworth who came from Istanbul when Sarell Ongley was in hot water. Leyla herself married an Ottoman administrator and man of letters of Cretan origin, Sirri Pasha Kiritli, and travelled with him to his various posts in Anatolia, the Balkans and Baghdad.

In Istanbul, their residence was a draw for the world of arts in which she held her own as poet and composer well after his death in , writing her memoirs when she was seventy. Part of these ruins is now a clearly marked bed and breakfast — Monasteri E35 a night in There is still enough of the unoccupied part to get a clear impression of the past, and a bit of step climbing gives a good view of the Arsenali area beyond and below.

Wiggle your way round now into the Arsenali quarter. At Karapatakis, run by a wife and husband team, in Katechaki Square, we celebrated my birthday with a very nice Italian meal — more of a dress-up place than most other restaurants. The restaurants built now into the old boatyards were a bit uninviting in April, mainly because it was rather windy which seemed to have affected the staff. But sit there with a drink and picture Jane Franklin see historical update above for more details and political comments.

Here, in , she spent her days of quarantine. Her visitors gone, she inspected her quarters in the lee of the Arsenali and noted that it looked like rain — all a bit unpleasant and hazardous. She got wet and felt unwell.

Account Options

The Health Inspector called and was surprised that she was not in the tent. I am paraphrasing all this because her diary is rather difficult to follow. The weather continued boisterous making it less likely that she could leave for the island of Syra to join her husband as she was constantly trying to do. Then you realise that she is accompanied by her maid who is unwell. The diary comes to an end, leaving blank pages. But there is enough there, I think, to picture the Arsenali in a new light.

Turn south now into the Splantzia area, and here you will find much historical atmosphere and gorgeous little houses, buildings and streets without the tourists that rather detract from the old Western part of the city. When we were there and having a good gossip with Jenny, she was planning to extend her operations in the area. North east of Splantzia and east of the Arsenali, there is a gap in the city walls, through which you escape to a different atmosphere.

Along here is Kum Kapi , a seaside promenade and lots of open air cafes which are pleasant on the right day.


  • The Rough Guide to Crete and The Lonely Planet Guide to Crete;
  • Stelios Skopelitis. D' Apres Rodin.
  • SORRY I DIDNT SEE VALENTINES DAY: Valentine’s fib.
  • Occult Chemistry Clairvoyant Observations on the Chemical Elements.
  • Birthmark, birthright?
  • Dog Pal Joe.
  • Get Out of the Left Lane!!: Drive the Right Way!.

You could walk from here to Chalepa along the front, linking up eventually with Venizelou Road, but that is not the way we went. And Chalepa really does merit a separate visit.

Crete Guides

What we did was go the Municipal Market way. Do find time, perhaps on another occasion, to go to the market which is good fun and the place to buy all sorts of Cretan herbs and packets for presents and your own kitchen cupboard.

Monasteries of Greece - Book presentation by Dimitris Sotiropoulos

The market fronts on to Venizelos Square and you continue along Venizelos Road, which is not particularly interesting, for a while. We then turned off down Koundourou Street, and so, eventually, to the Schwartz house.

Stelios Skopelitis. D' Apres Rodin

But here I am going to leave the house till last, to make it the climax of this jaunt. So, along the sea front, you should come eventually to Venizelos Road further on from where we turned off , and continue up towards Chalepa. Mary Walker sets the scene for us in the second half of the nineteenth century:. We do not enter the village of Khalepa, the residence of most of the European consuls and the wealthy merchants.

If you have come by taxi, ask for the Halepa Hotel Venizelos Road.