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The Stormrider Surf Guide Indonesia: Surfing in Sumatra, Mentawai Islands, Nias​, Sumbawa, Sumba, Savu and Rote (Stormrider Surf Guides) Kindle Edition.
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The region was obviously rich with potential for surf, and nowadays that potential has mostly been revealed in all its glory. I then had an unsuccessful attempt to search unexplored surfing territory on the peninsula of Ujung Kulon and the adjacent island of Panaitan, at the western end of Java.

In the end, it was a pretty good outcome and gave me my first insight into the question of regulating access to perfect, out-of-the-way surf locations.

The G'Land adventure is described in a letter I sent to my father from Jakarta, 12 July , which reads in part:. We sailed along off the point while I stood, watching foot, powerful and hollow waves as good as any anywhere, just barreling off down over half a mile of reef. And, of course, I was the only surfer there. The illustration that accompanies this shows the 3-story tree-house in which we slept. The discovery of waves in Nias back in had spread in a low-key way by word of mouth in the cliff-top warungs at Uluwatu.

Surfing at Lagundri was even mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide in , but no photographic evidence had leaked out. My Nias plans failed a second time, as explained in a letter to my father sent from Bangkok in August First the bus was stopped in pouring rain for three hours because of a bridge collapse. During this three hours all of the Indonesian men had a contest, it seemed, as to who could smoke the most cigarettes!

Meanwhile, because of the mortal risk of coming into contact with rainwater, everyone closed all their windows. The result? Well, no-one need have smoked cigarettes: breathing the air gave greater intake of smoke! About noon I went down to the harbour.

MENTAWAI SURF BARREL PERFECTION SUMATRA INDONESIA

A short while turned out to be later and later — we finally left at 2 am. I had no place to sleep, everywhere was wet, and we finally turned back. Here we sat in the cold, pouring rain all day. But by afternoon I had a fairly high fever and rising — it looked as though maybe I did have malaria. I appealed in my best Indonesian to the captain, asking could we go back to port?

On the way back from Padang to Jakarta I had taken a steamer past the Mentawai Islands, the ship rolling in a foot Indian Ocean groundswell. Out on the horizon, those islands beckoned as we steamed on by. Out there lay gold for sure.

Secret (Nias) Spot Guide - Surf Forecast and Report - leondumoulin.nl

It sounds like a great series Swellnet. I'm hoping for a Stu I have the storm rider surf stories. I always find claims by people that they were definitely the first to surf a wave or area pretty hard to back up. My old man was in Nias surfing in the early 70s.


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There were five or six surfers names in the chief log book before him. The two immediately before him were the Aussie guys who claim to have found Nias. Three years before them think it was '69 or 70' there were three French surfers who had visited Nias on a yacht. Interestingly they had written in the log book that there were good waves around southern siberut in the Mentawaiis.

So these French guys possibly may have been the first to surf both Nias and the Mentawaiis but who knows. We often think of places like the mentawais as being untouched by westerners, but the Dutch and German were active from nias to mentawais as missonaries and there is even old graves on remote islands, then when the Dutch had control of Indonesia they had a presence in places like mentawais think they were logging out the back of maccas you can even see were an old road from that period went through that is now jungle you can only make it out because of the difference in soil levels It doesn't matter how far out in the middle of nowhere I think I am in Indonesia, there is always mention of another foreigner nearby who has lived there for decades.

I was on a trip in Sumba not long ago and was chatting to a couple who lived in a long-forgotten village with no electricity, water or Bibles they barely spoke Indonesian when low and freaking behold, a Kiwi woman who spoke fluent Sumbanese strolls in with her horse. She'd been living down the hill for twenty years. That kind of thing happens all the damn time, right across the archipelago. He tells a story of how some surfers had been in the bay, and word spread up into the mountains towards the tribes that had not yet been converted, and that they had deliberated for a day and a night before deciding that, of course, their heads must come off.

In search of the perfect wave in Indonesia

By the time they made it down the hill the surfers had thankfully gone. Kevin Lovett - he of the 'first person claim' or whatever you want to call it - was one of those surfers. He talks about that in his article published in the Australian Surfers Journal, which was a truly epic piece. It was something like 12, words and felt like half an issue with a lot of history, local affairs, and cultural context mixed in.

You have to wonder how much artistic licence was used in that story given that westerners had been on Nias for a long time hence the reason they are all Christian. Yeah I don't think Portuguese traders and missionaries would have to much influence on surfing history. Have you read the book "An unconventional history of surfing" - I think that's its name? Not a bad read but it does actually discuss how missionaries in Hawaii tried to and nearly succceeded stamp out surfing. Who knows? Maybe Tome Pires was threading mad tubes in Sumatra in the early 16th Century and was just writing about all this apothecary rubbish to throw us off the scent Cheeky bastard.

They are all Christian now. But in the 70's there were still many villages untouched by it - some coincidentally, most of them however chose to shun Christianity for as long as they could. As it is in most places, a mixture of government policy i. In any case, anthropologists including Beatty were working with 'traditional' villages in Nias at the time the first surfers were turning up.

All true but does it really matter who surfed it first?

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Goodnow doesn't specifically lay claim in the above article. Indonesia is surely the focus, and the numerous chains of islands surrounded by world-class reefs play a strong supporting cast.

Sumatra eBook

The Stormrider Surf Guides continue to be the pinnacle of surf travel guide books, and this latest edition is no different. The photos and words are current and the entire package does itself justice. Post a Comment. Buy on the merchant's on-line searching and read reviews.

BALI SUMBAWA SUMATRA SUMBA TIMOR MENTAWAI JAVA

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