leondumoulin.nl: The Machine Pistol (Home Workshop Guns for Defense and Resistance) (): Bill Holmes: Books.
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- Books by Bill Holmes (Author of The Master Gunmaker's Guide to Building Bolt-Action Rifles)
- Books by Bill Holmes
The unwanted inner portion of the openings should fall free, leaving only a litHe file work to finish. The slot for the cocking lever is made in the same way, except that one-eighth inch holes are drilled onefourth inch apart on the center line and redrilled with a three-eighths inch center drill forming a slot threeeighths inch w de and four inches long.
The reason center drills are used to redrill the holes is because they will not crawl or spread to the next hole as a regular twist drill might. The only way the gun could lire with the cocking lever in the safety notch. The cocking lever s sturdy though, so it isn't likely that lhal would ever happen. Also note the ejection port and the slot lor the cocking lever. They might not be dirt-proof, but IIley are simple and tool-proof. There is no way this safety will fail unless enough pressure is brought to bear to break off the cocking lever.
The rest of the corners of this opening should have a one-eighth inch radius. This opening should be three-eighths inch wide by three-fourths inch long and made in the same manner as the others. A breech plug should be turned from one and threefourths inch in diameter by one inch round stock. Reduce the diameter to one and five-eighths 1. The 1urned down portion is threaded twenty-four threads per inch 1. This plug should be bored out inside, leaving approximately a three-sixteenths inch wall thickness, both to form a well for the recoil spring and to reduce weight.
A magazine well is formed either by bending oneeighth inch flat stock around a form of the same dimensions as the magazine or by welding strips together to form the front and both sides. The front must be radiused to fit the curve of the receiver, after which it should be positioned over the magazine opening and welded in place. Care must be observed to insure that the box remains in line with the opening.
The rear wall of the boxes is now made to the dimen- sions shown in the drawing and welded in place. Tt,e inside of this magazine box should now be smoothed with files ard emery cloth or stones until the clip may be inserted and removed with very little effort. At that time it will be trimmed by filing off the oottom until the clip seats itself far enough for cartridges to feed properly. This photograph shows the top of the receiver. Note the position of the ejedion port. This firing pin may be made in several different ways. It may be machined directly on the bolt face as the counterbore is formed, made separately and held in place by a threaded bushing, or made separately and threaded in place.
The latter method is the type I prefer since it isn't too hard to make and is easily replaceable if it wears down or breaks. Therefore this is the type shown in the drawing. Drill a hole to receive the firing pin with a Number 26 drill, making it one-half inch deep with a flat bottom. A flat pointed square ended drill may be ground and used after the hole is drilled to depth to form the flat bottom. Now bore this hole to one-fourth inch diameter for the first one-tenth inch depth to receive the enlarged The breech block, or bolt as some insist on calling it, is made from one and one-half inch round stock that is three and one-half inches long.
It should be made from material that can be hardened to prevent battering or undue wear. If commercial steel is available, then buy a type that you or someone with the facilities can harden to between thirty-five and forty on a Rockwell "C" Scale. If none is available, then you will have to take your chances on something like a truck axle.
Tractor transmissions sometimes contain shafts suitable for this also. At any rate, a suitable piece of material is chucked in the lathe, with the end squared and true. A counterbore of sufficient diameter to accept the cartridge head should be machined in the face of the breech block. For the nine millimeter Parabellum cartridge, this counterbore should be two-fifths inch in diameter by one-tenth inch deep. Then thread the hole with a three-sixteenth inch by twenty-four tap. The firing pin may now be made. It may be turned from suitable one-fourth inch round stOC , such as drill rod.
Since it may be hard for the inexperienced machinist to hold and cut threads on such a small part, a steel three-sixteentlls inch by twenty-four bolt may be used. The one-fourth inch by one-tenth inch flange is formed from the head, with a hemispherical one-sixteenths inch firing pin machined in the center. Drill two opposing one-sixteenth inch holes, one on each side of the firing pin, from. This should result in a smooth, flat bolt face with only the firing pin proper projecting.
Now reverse the breech olock in the lathe and bore the rear end to a one-tenth inch wall thickness to a ciepth of one and three-tenths 1. After doing that, drill another hole one-half inch deep with a threesixteenths inch drill. A cocking lever relainer is needed to enter this opening. II may be made either in one piece or with the 1. The bottom left portion should be turned to a one-eighth inch thickness.
Drill a three-sixteenths inch hole in the center of tnis portion and either thread or weld a three-sixteenths inch diameter by one-half inch long plug in place. A three-eighths inch hole should now be drilled on the exact center line of the bolt body, one and ninetenths 1.
It should be one and one-fourth 1. The cocking lever fits into this hole. The cocking lever is made from three-eighths inch round stock approKimate y two and three-eighths 2. Probably the easiest way to make I Now we will begin the most dllllcult operation ol the entire job. Tum the boll bottom sjde up. The cocking lever should be tn the three o'clock. Draw these tines parallel to the center line from the j ont edge of tho breec. A template may be made either I rom 1he drawings or by measuring directly trom the magazine you intend to usQ. The tom plato and dimenslons shown In the drawings are correct lor a Sten gun cUp An outline oJ the opening to be made should be setlbod on the bolt f-a te.
The material tns1dc these scribed l i nes must be removed bY some means II a vertical m i lling machi ne ts avittlabte,lllsnot mucnot a lob If, however. With all tt',e outline holes drilled to the proper dept1 and proper!
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You should be able to remove it with the chisel without too much trouble. What do you do now? You remove enough metal to make an opening in the shape of the template. This will enable the template to slide freel'f over and around the loaded magazine, allowing the radiused portion to pick up a cartridge and chamber it. Put a good sturdy handle on a ten inch file and wrap several layers of tape around the four or five inches adjacent to the handle. Then, by putting both hands near the handle end, the end of the file may be used to greater advantage, together with cold chisels, to properly form and smooth this opening.
You will probably decide it cannot be done several times before you finish, but don't give up. It can be done! The reason I am so sure is because I did it on the first gun of this type that I made. Some type of depth stop is needed to prevent drilling deeper than one-half inch. If a drill press is used, there will be no problem. Simply use the depth stop on the drill press. However, if a hand drill is the only kind available, some sort of stop must be put directly on the drill bit. A collar may be made for this purpose from a piece of tubing epoxied or soldered in place, or a nut or washer that will just slip over the drill.
Make up both a one-eighth inch and a one-fourth inch drill in tt1is manner, by soldering the collar in place. Holes are drilled on the punch marks that we made around the inside scribe lines with the one-eighth inch drill first, and then with the one-fourth inch drill. The holes parallel to tt1e center line must be angled inward toward the center at an angle of sixteen degrees. The included angle of the finished sides will be thirty-two degrees.
Alter these are drilled on both sides and the end, stand the breech block on end, face up, and drill another series of holes one and seven-tenths. There should be enough material left to 35 CIX: It should be tapped to take a six by forty-eight headless screw which will lock the firing pin in place, thus preventing it from inadvertently working out. A slot must be cut to clear an ejector. This should be a continuation of the right side viewed from the bolt face of the magazine opening.
It should extend Into the bolt face counterbore approximately. This slot should be approximately three-thlrtyseconds Inch wide and may be formed by drilling connecting holes and filing to shape as we have done before. An extractor must be Installed In the bolt face In an eleven o'clock position when viewed from the front. This is best done by cutting a "T" slot three-sixteenths inch wide at the bolt face and five-sixteenths Inch wide at the bottom of the cartridge head, counterbore to the outside edge.
File a slot one-tenth Inch deep and not quite three-sixteenths inch wide with a small square file. The bottom "T" portion may be cut partly with a three-cornered file and finished with a small flat file such as an automotive point file. It may be necessary to grind these files thinner in order to accomplish this. Center a three-sixteenths inch hole, three-fourths inch deep, In this extractor slot, three-eights inch from the outer diameter.
Insert a coil spring that will slip freely Into the hole behind a follower made from threesixteenths inch round stock. The head should be angled at approximately thirty degrees and the stem should fit freely Inside the spring. The extractor proper is made from one-eighth inch flat stock, filed to a slip fit Inside the "T" slot. It should be one-half inch long with a one-fifth inch radius on the end that contacts the cartridge head. Drill a matching hole with thirty degree shoulders. This will enable the spring loaded follower to engage itself, forcing the extractor rim into the extractor groove in the cartridge head.
These blanks are available in many configurations, ranging from feather-weight blanks to Bull barrels of up to one and three-eighths inch diameter for entire lengths of thirty inches or more. Since our project requires an eight inch section with a five-eighths inch diameter, it would seem to make sense to acquire a barrel blank slightly over twenty-four inches long. Unthreaded and unchambered blanks are u. This length, with a minimum diameter of five-eighths inch, will give you enough material to make three barrels. At the present time there are several companies that manufacture and sell chamber reamers.
These range in price from a low of around ten dollars to a high of thirty dollars. For our purposes, a finish reamer will suffice. Specify that it will be used in a rifle barrel when you order it. If you don't, the company many send you a reamer with a pilot too big to enter the bore. This may happen because many pistol caliber reamers are made with the pilot ground to groove diameter or slightly larger for use in revolver cylinders. I realize the nine millimeter cartridge is used in automatic and semiautomatics, but there are revolver cylinders chambered for it on occasion.
To avoid a foul-up, go ahead and specify that the reamer will be used for a rifle barrel. Incidentally, the higher priced reamers will usually have an integral throat reamer included, allowing you to work the entire chambering operation with a single reamer. The cheaper ones often require the additional use of a separate reamer for the throat portion.
In most cases the higher priced reamer, such as those made by Clymer Manufacturing Company, will prove to be the 39 cheapest in the long run. The barrel proper is rather simple to construct. Cut a section of the barrel blank to the proper length and square the ends in the lathe.
After turning it to a diameter of five-eighths inch, thread one end eighteen threads per inch by one and one-half inches long. This will enable the barrel to screw into the receiver with the end flush against the inside face of the barrel bushing, leaving enough extra threads to accept a five-eighths inch by eighteen lock nut. The muzzle end should be crowned with a lathe tool ground for this purpose, and finished with a file and emery cloth.
Follow this by finishing with grit wet or dry sandpaper. Feed the chamber reamer into the breech end of the barrel, with the barrel chucked. By turning at the slowest back gear speed pressure from the rail stock ram will push the reamer into the bore. Do not hold the reamer in a rigid tail stock chuck. It should be kept from turning with a hand-held tap wrench, a clamp, a small wrench, or some similar arrangement which will release and turn with the barrel if the reamer should suddenly decide to seize.
The reamer should be well lubricated and removed and cleaned frequently. Another method of operation is to secure the barrel in a vise and turn the reamer in by hand using a proper tap wrench or reamer drive. If this method is used, care must be taken to feed the reamer straight, with no side pressure exerted in any direction. An ideal chamber will result in this particular gun if you cut to a depth that will leave about a. Therefore, you should try cartridges or a headspace gauge in the chamber frequently as you approach the finish depth. When the cartridge head protrusion from the chamber equals the depth of the breech block counterbore supposedly one-tenth inch , plus fifteen or twenty thousandths, you should screw the barrel in place in the gun.
Tighten the lock nut, and after removing the firing pin, push the breech block forward as hard as you can. It will be better to wait until the main spring is in place, allowing the spring to shove the bolt closed. The chamber will be of a satisfactory depth when a feeler gauge of. A cartridge should be in the chamber when you make the feeler gauge test, of course, and the extractor and firing pin should be removed from the breech block. That was the easy way to obtain a barrel. If no barrel blanks or chamber reamers are available when you have a need to make this gun, you will have to make the needed tools to drill, ream, and rifle the barrel yourself.
Around almost every town of moderate size, there is a gunsmith or some serious gun nut who has removed one or more barrels from some of the bolt action military rifles to rebarrel them to a caliber he considers more suitable. If you can acquire one of these old discarded barrels, you are a third of the way home.
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The hole will undoubtedly be drilled, ready to ream and rifle. This does not mean that you can take any old. These would not last long enough to make the project worthwhile. Barrels used for such cartridges as the eight by fifty-seven millimeter,. It might be a good idea, at this time, to define exactly what is required for the barrel we need. The nine millimeter Luger or Parabellum cartridge requires a bore diameter of. The groove diameter will be. The rifling twist may be anywhere from one turn in nine and one-half 9.
The chamber diameter should be. These measurements should be as precise as possible. However, in this particular instance, a four or six groove barrel is recomrmended. Then add another shim and make another cut through each groove. This should be repeated until the proper groove diameter is reached, after which the bore should be reamed to size and lapped as described later in this chapter.
This is a very slow, drawn out means of rifling a barrel. If possible, you should take a close look at the hook-type rifling cutter shown in the drawing. This cutter may be rotated at the proper rate of twist by a spiral groove cut in a suitable rod or by casting a lead slug around a rod inside a barrel with a proper twist rate. This cutter is used in the same way as in the previous description, making a cut through each groove before raising the cutter. However, with this set-up, the bore is reamed to the proper diameter before the rifling cutter is used, so considerably less metal must be removed by the rifling cutter.
Regardless of the rifling method used, the bore must be reamed to size. This is best accomplished by chucking the barrel blank in the lathe and by drilling the bore out with progressively larger drills, beginning assuming we started with a. An eleven-thirtyseconds inch reamer will get the bore diameter up to. It is also possible to grind a pilot that will just enter the bore on one end of a three-eighths inch square lathe cutting tool.
Grind and stone the square body to the proper size, then blaze an extension to the end and push or pull it through the revolving barrel. It must be fed very slowly, using plenty of lubricant; as should be done with all cutting, drilling, and reaming operations. After the bore is reamed to the proper size and rifled, it should be lapped to remove any fine wire burns or chips left from the barrel tools.
This may be done by casting a lead slug. Push the slug almost all the way out of the bore, and coat it with a mixture of oil and fine emery flour. The unoccupied portion of the bore should also be coated with oil through the opposite end. A stop should be inserted In each end of the barrel to insure against accidentally pushing or pulling out the This plug should never be removed from the bore until its work is finished.
The lap should now be pulled and pushed back and forth through the b: After the lap is removed, the barrel should be cleaned thoroughly with gasoline and patches, and then exam1ned. If more lapping is needed, the old lap should be melted off the rod and a rew one made. Do not try to put the old lap back in the barrel. The drawings show, in addition to the rifling heads and lapping rod, how to make a ball-bearing handle.
This handle should be used both with the rifling head and the lapping rod so trat each may follow the rifling twist freely. It is hoped that you will be able to secure bar'el blanks of the proper size if and when you need one. However, this business of drilling and rifling your own barrel or barrels is a fascinating and rewarding operation. And as knowledge and experience are gained through practice and experimenting, quite reliable barrels may be obtained in this manner.
Finished barrel with lock nut in place. Following that, file the sides and ends to a rectangular shape. The trigger will project through the hole thus formed. The trigger guard may now be made from a strip of one-eighth inch by one-half inch steel. Bend it to the shape shown in the drawing or to a reasonable facsimile, and weld it in place on the bottom side of the housing, over the trigger opening. The top of this box, which fits against the bottom of the receiver, should be filed to match the contour of the receiver as closely as possible so that when the takedown bolt is drawn up tight, the two pieces will fit together closely, keeping the joint as dust and dirt-proof as possible.
The length of these is not crit- A trigger and sear housing may be formed by bending one-eighth inch sheet stock to shape. However, it may be considerably easier to saw or grind one side of a section of angle iron bed frame material is ideal for this to the proper width and then to weld a flat piece to the side. This will form a box shape which should be left open at the top.
The inside dimensions of this housing should be five-eighths inch wide by one inch deep with a finished length of eight inches. Make it at least eight and one-fourth 8. Weld a plate of the same material across one end to form the rear end of the trigger housing. Beginning two and five-eighths 2. If no tubing is available, a three-eighths inch hole may be drilled lengthwise through either round or square stock to obtain the two needed pieces. The wall thickness should be at least three-thirtyseconds inch, since these will take a considerable beating when the stock is in the extended position.
When the two sections of tubing, which we will refer to as stock retainers, are completed, the trigger housing should be clamped in its finished position against the receiver. Then place the stock retainers in position, the rear end flush with the back end of the trigger housing and the upper side nestled against the receiver. When located in this position, they may be tack welded, with the trigger housing separated from the receiver. Weld the two retainers securely in place, but only to the trigger housing. A hole, one-half inch in diameter, must be located two and three-fourths 2.
These measurements are for the center of the hole, naturally. Carefully drill this hole completely through both sides, making sure that it is square with the housing, since the fire selector mechanism will be located at this point. The trigger should be made from three-eighths inch flat stock of high quality steel, capat: It may be formed by drilling interconnecting holes around the outline and filing to shape as previously described, or it may be sawed and bent to shape from a piece three-fourths inch wide by three-eighths inch thick by four inches long.
Following that, drill a one-fourth inch hole approximately one-fourth inch deep in the bottom side about half way between the pivot pin hole and the trigger nose. The upper portion of a trigger spring will be located in this hole. The trigger nose should be shaped as shown in the drawing.
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Since this is the part of the trigger that engages the sear with a close, precise fit, it should only be rough shaped at this time. It should not be finished until the sear is completed. The fire selector that is, the switch to select either full automatic, in which the gun will continue to fire as long as the trigger is held down, or semi-automatic in which case a single round will be fired with each pull of the trigger as well as the trigger pivot pin should be made from round stock as indicated in the drawing.
Turn both sides to size and shape them into one piece. Enlarge the ho1e In the rlght hand secUon to. Rotating the fire selector switch degre. A piece one inch wide and three inches long is required and srould be of quality tool steei. It should be sawed, ground, and filed to the shape shown. The portion wh ch projects into the receiver and engages thE! It will have less drag, resulting in an easier trigger pull, if it. However, it would also have less strength, so I suggest you leave it at three-eighths inch. Establish a center two and one-fourth 2. Place a close fitting steel plug m this hole and drill another hole one-eighth inch forward of the center of the first hole centered on the seam between the plug and rim of the first hole.
If th1s is properly done, the remainder of the plug will form a radiused slot when removed. This will allow the sear to slide forward and backward one-eighth inch over a one-fourth inch pivot pin. If the sear will not slide back and forth freely, file and polish it until it does. Drill another one-fourth inch hole from the front end, centering it between the sides, one-fourth inch from the bottom. This one should be c1ose to one-fourth irch deep.
Construct a coil spring and follower as shown, and insert them in the hole. After the pivot pin is installed, the spring should have enough compression to hold the sear firmly to the rear. Then, when the fire selector is set on semi-automatic, the trigger nose will be in the forward position. Then, when the trigger is pulled, tl'le breech block moves forward, relieving the pressure on the sear.
With this pressure relieved, the compressed spring within the breech block moves it to the rear one-eighth inch, disenJaging it from the trigger before it will again engage the sear. Conversely, when in full automatic mode, the trigger nose is moved to the rear one-eighth inch, and remains in this posiliW", in constant engagement with the sear, thus permitting the breech block to continue to mcve forward without interruption until the trigger is 'eleased. This probably sounds somewhat complicated; but after you study and understand it, you' II find that i1' s one of the simplest selective fire trigger mechanisms found anywhere.
Alter the hole for the onefourth inch pivot pin is located, drilled, and tapped, these shoulders and the trigger nose should be adjusted 'JY filing, stoning, ancl polishing. When the fire selector is turned to semi-automatic, and the trigger is in the forward position, the spring inside the sear should push 1t to the rear, thereby disengaging it. When the sear is then pushed forward, as it would be with the breech! One more one-fourth inch hole must be drilled as close to the front of the sear as possible to receive a sear opening.
This is simply another small coil spring with enough compression to hold and return the sear to its engaging position. The forward e1d of the housing should be shaped as shown to enter its receptacle in the rear of the magazine housing. Then drill a three-eighths inch hole through the bottom center of the trigger housing, one and oneeighth 1. With the trigger housing clamped in place on the receiver, locate and drill a corresponding hole in the receiver.
A three-eighths inch by twenty-four steel nut may be welded over the hole to receive the stock bolt, which will eventually hold the completed assemblies together. Left side of complete gun is pictured al right. The fire selector swotch on this gun is different hom the one shown in the drawings and descrobed "' the text.
Drill a lengthwise hole through the grip blank, one and three-fourths inch from the front edge, centered in the width ol the grip blank. The hole should be just big enough to slip over the tubing, which you welded to the trigger housing in the process mentioned above. It is important that this hole be square with the top side, so takecare to make it so.
Alter the hole is drilled, slip the grip blank over the tubing and push it as far as it will go. With it in place, the outline of any material to be removed may be marked with a pencil. Some of the wood will have to be removed from the top, to allow the grip to slip up over the sides of the trigger housing. This can be done by carefully marking the outline and by making parallel saw cuts to the required depth, as close together as possible. After which any remaining wood can be removed A four inch section of tubing, with an inside diameter that will accept a three-eighths inch bolt, should be aligned with the hole at the rear of the trigger housing.
This tubing does not have to be very strong, since it is used mainly as a spacer and to reinforce the wooden pistol grip. Any material that will weld to the trigger hotJsing may be used, including iron pipe. If these materials are not available, cut a four inch section from an old rifle barrel and drill a hole with a three-eighths inch drill.
If not, it might be necessary to file the interior of the tubing until a three-eighths inch bolt enters freely. The pistol grip may be made from any close grained hardwood such as walnut, wild cherry, maple, gtJm, and others. Pick a piece that is as straight grained as possible and try to stay away from brittle wood that will crack easily. The grip blank should measure at least 69 U,.. Tho top of the grip Should fit closely against the boltom of lhe stocK retainers.
If the metal parts are given a thin coating of lipstick and pushed as- far as they w ill go i nto the wood, high spots or wood to bo removed will be easny detected tt;l'ough traces of the tipstick on the wood , Work stow.. When shaped to suit you, sand h smooth. Aft4lr mo Sill"d,,g fs completed, a stain or varnish may be added to suit your laney 1 suggest thai you use a waterproof finish.
If you have no special prelerencc, try brushing on. With the and cap removed from the receiver, tighten the trigger housing bolt and make sure the bolt does not protrude into the receiver. If you can find a jack handle from the screw jack of standard Ford half-ton trucks, you will have an ideal piece of material to make your stock. One from a fairly late model is required, since the older trucks came with a jack handle that folded in the middle and had shorter pieces.
For the last few years,! This is the one 'OU should be looking for. A section approximately thirty-six inches long. It should be marked at the middle and bent into a "U" shape with the bottom of the "U" having a radh. It may be bent to shape freehand, but a neater job will result if it's heated to a bright red or orange color before bending to shape around a three-fourths inch to one-half inch diameter section of round stock.
About five inches up from the bottom of the "U," bend both legs downward ninety degrees. Again, a neater job will result if heat is applied first. The butt end, or the end that goes against your shoulder, should be slightly curved to fit your shoulder. Keep the legs coat is thoroughly dry, sand back the grip nearly to the surface of the wood.
Several coats of "Tru-oil" or "lin-speed" may then be added, making an extremely durable and waterproof finish. After you are satisfied with the finish and after the trigger housing 11as been polished and colored blued, painted, etc. This may be done by giving the Interior surfaces of the wood and the outside surlace of the tubing section a liberal coating of epoxy cement and by pressing the parts together, with clamps or with y Uf hands, until dry. Any surplus cement should be wiped off both metal and wood, simply to keep the job from looking sloppy.
The washer should also be cemented into the bottom o1 the grip with the same epoxy cement.
Books by Bill Holmes (Author of The Master Gunmaker's Guide to Building Bolt-Action Rifles)
This bolt should extend through the grip and thread 1nto the nut that is welded to the receiver body. In addition to the hexagon head which a five-eighths inch wrencl1 fits, a screwdriver slot should be sawed or filej across the head of the bolt, wide enough to accept a twenty-five cent piece. This will enable you to take it apart later, even if a wrench is not available.
Ck end , to accept a short length of coli spring. This w11t keep the latch engaged 1n o slot on each leg of the stock. If desired, the front sight may be adjusted for horizontal movement by sliding it in the opposite direction to the desired point of impa:: Verlical adjustmerlt may then be made by raising or lowering the rear sight. However, since it would require a hammer and punch or similar tools to move the front sight, it would be better to make a rear sight, fully adjustable for both elevation and windage.
If available, the rear sight assembly from a United States 03A4 rifle, or similar rifle, can be used. It should be fitted as close to the rear of the receiver as possible, by making a mounting bracket and brazing or screwing it in place, in the center of the top of the rear receiver. A satisfactory front sight can be obtained by sawing the lower part of the barrel band from the front sight of an old World War I or II military rifle. File the bottom to the same radius as the receiver and fasten it in place by brazing, or with screws, or through a combination of both.
In the event that these sights are not available, it will be necessary to make a set from scratch, with sheet metal as I illustrated with the other parts. The front sight may be made from sheet metal in one of two ways; by filing or milling from a solid block, or by welding separate sections together. I personally believe that a fronl sight, filed from a solid block with an integral protective ear on each side of the sight blade, will prove to be sturdier, and therefore the most dependable.
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It should be fastened to the receiver with two screws and silver solder. File one side of a block of steel, three-fourths inch square, to lhe same radius as the receiver body. This will be the bottom of the sight. Turn it over and lay out 79 M. Two will act as guide lines to mark a one-eighth inch blade in the middle of the sight body. Lay these out, one-sixteenth inch on each side of, and parallel to, the center line.
The other two lilles should be made on each side, one-eighth illch inside the outside edge. Now, with a series or parallel saw cuts, finished with a file or with file cuts only, remove the metal between the blade in the middle and the outside walls to a depth of three-eighths inch. The outside walls should be beveled or rounded toward the top, and flared slightly outward by beveling. These outer walls serve only to protect the sight blade.
They should be rounded at the front and rear corners to create a better appearance and to prevent the sight from catching on clothing. The rear sight is a little more complicated. Since I feel that adjustment for both windage and elevatioll is mandatory, this is the type I will illustrate. The rear sight shown here is quite similar to the U. It is very sturdy because the outside walls guard the sight proper. The main body may be bent to shape from one-eighth inch sheet stock. Another piece must then be used on the bottom as a fillet between the bottom of the sight and the curved surface of the receiver.
If this method is used, cut a strip seven-eighths inch wide by three inches long, and bend it around a threefourths inch wide block of steel to form a square "U" shaped box. The sides should oe shaped as shown in the drawing. The bottom fillet must be cut to approximately the same shape as the bottom of this sight body and filed to the radius of the receiver body. This will be "sandwiched" between the sight and receiver to make a close fitting installation.
Another method, probably better in the long run, would be to make a bottom section from one-fourth inch thick stock, three-fourths inch wide and seven-eigh: The bottom radius should fit the receiver and an outside wall of one-eighth inch sheet, that should be welded or brazed to each side of the bottom section. After the rear sight is properly shaped, through either method, a. The windage adjLstment screw goes in this hole. It may be formed completely with tiles. However, a small, flat pillar tile is necessary to cut the slot in each side.
Be careful not to get the saw blade hot enough to affect its heat treatment while grinding it narrow. The rear sight itself is made by bending a threeeighths in: The sight aperture may be drilled with whatever size drill you desire. I recommend a oneeighth inch aperture. The flange on each side of the sight should closely fit the slots in the sight body. Also, a keeper, or retainer, made from flat spring stock, should be fastened to the top of the sight with a screw. I have purposely avoided mentioning any click values, wherein one click or partial turn of the windage knob or fore and aft movement of the elevation slide would equal so much at a given range.
There are too many variables to consider to make this practical. The distance between the front and rear sight, the number of threads per inch on the windage screw, and the angle of the elevation slide would all have to be exact to accurately predict this. Therefore, you must practice shooting your gun, moving the sights until they are in line with the same point that the bullet strikes, at whatever range you choose. Drill a corresponding hole through the sight block crosswise to receive the windage screw. This hole should be drilled with a Number 29 drill and tapped with an eight by forty, or whatever thread pitch fits your screw.
Drill another hole from the bottom side in tt: This serves to keep looseness or play to a minimum between the block and sight body. A Number 8 steel screw, one and one-fourth inch long, is used as a windage screw. Turn the head down until only a small flange remains. This flange should be countersunk slightly into the sight body. Make a knob to screw on the projecting end of the screw with a lock screw to secure it to the windage screw.
The outer rim of this knob should be knurled if possible. Various dealers, in surplus and junk, advertise these parts in many of the gun magazines and trade papers, such as Shotgun News. One of the best buys on the current market is the Sten Gun Clip. Presently available for around four dollars, these clips are truly a bargain for anyone having any use for such a magazine. They hold thirty-two rounds of nine millimeter ammunition and the entire upper portion, including the lips which hold the cartridges in place, is reinforced with an extra thickness of sheet steel on the back and sides.
This results in a strong, virtually i11destructible magazine. Assuming these are still available when you need one, I recommend that you buy at least one extra, and more if your budget permits. If there comes a time when these are no longer available, an alternate source must be found.
This means making yoc1r own, which at first glance may seem almost impossible. However, a closer look will reveal that perhaps it isn't so difficult after all-only time consuming. If a clip needs to be made to approximately lhe dimensions and capacity of the Sten, then a piece of nineteen or eighteen gauge sheet steel, five inches wide by ten inches long will be needed. The eighteen gauge material is. If the double thickness is used in the upper portion, an additional section three inches by three and one-half inches would be required as well as a one and onefourth inc!
In addition, all four corners should be slightly rounded. Place the male portion of the die inside the female portion, with a shim of sheet metal on each side. This shim should be of the same thickness as the magazine material to keep it centered. Then drill a three-eighths inch hole at each end, close enough to each end so that t1ere is room for the ten inch magazine to be formed tetweer them. The holes should be drilled through toth the male and female dies simultaneously while they are together. A close fitting guide pin should be used in each of these holes, to keep the die in line while the magazine is being formed.
If the dies are to be used more than once, a slightly oversize pin should be pressed into each end of the female die and the holes in the male die should be reamed to a close slip fit over them. If you only plan to use the dies a few times though, loose pins will suffice. After greasing lightly, center the sheet metal blank across the top of the female die. The male die also lubricated lightly should be centered on top of the sheet netal blank, and then the whole business should be squeezed together either in a press or with a large vise.
A female forming die should be made with a "U" shaped cross section formed by bolting, riveting, or welding two lengths of three-eighths inch or thicker steel to a center section of the same material which w iII be. The sides should be one and one-half inch high, measured from the inside bottom section.
The length should be at least twelve inches. Slightly bevel or chamfer the inner top wall and polish it until it is as smooth as poss,ble. If only a few magazines will be formed, angle iron may be used to make this forming die, provided that another piece is welded across each end to prevent it from spreading open. A male die must be made to fit exactly the opening in the female die, less double the thickness of the material being formed, less another. This simply means that if the opening in the female de is. In this case, the male die would have to be. There should also be.
The jack will force the die together, forming the sheet metal into the shape of the magazine. Either method will form the front and both sides of the magazine body. Then the back side must be formed. After placing a bar of steel along the side of the sheet metal, still extending from the top of the die, tap it smartly, bending it toward the middle.
Do this on both sides. This rod should be brazed, soldered, riveted, or otherwise fastened to the plate. To complete the outside form, place the plate,' will": When the bond is secure, remove the form from the die by pushing the male die out from one end. The seam should be sweated solder , brazetl, or riveted together, atter which the lips should be cut to shape and bent inward to the shape shown.
The reinfo-cing section is made in the same manner except it only has t1ree sides with the front left open. When formed to the proper shape, witt: The bottom sides must be flared at right angles outward from the magazine body, leaving a one-sixteenth inch lip projecting from each side.
The bottom plate will slide onto these lips. This can be done with a hammer and a flat bar of steel, but the male die should be placed back inside the magazine while forming, to prevmt it fr m being bent out of shape. Clamp a flat plate to the side, flush with the bottom of the angle. While holding the flat bar against the bottom, make the bend by tapping it with a hammer. The bottom plate is made to the dimensions shown it shoulci just slip over the bottom of the magazine by bending to shape in the same manner or by forming it in the small die. After it is shaped, drill a threesixteenths inch hole somewhere close to the center and make a matching keeper by drilling through a plate which is sized to fit inside the bottom of the magazine body.
Then rivet a three-sixteenths inch diameter projection in place. The purpose of the bottom of the magazine spring is to bear against this keeper, pressing it firmly against the bottom plate with the stud engaging the hole. This will prevent the bottom plate from being removed unless the stud is pushed inward. The magazine follower may be made from one-half inch Hat stock. By filing and grinding a proper bevel as 95 SUM llR! Also, drill a one-sixteenth inch hole near one end.
Then, with one end of a length of one-sixteenth inch music wire or spring stock fastened in the hole, feed the remainder through a groove filed in a one-half inch square bar some ten inches long. A useable spring will result if the bar is wound around and around the mandrel. Popularity Popularity Featured Price: Low to High Price: High to Low Avg.
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