The Beagle is a breed of small hound that is similar in appearance to the much larger foxhound. The beagle is a scent hound, developed primarily for hunting hare. Although beagle-type dogs have existed for 2, years, the modern breed was into the History of the British Dog from , the early 17th-century poet and.
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A low-vigor dog, on the other hand, has a more subdued approach to life. Some breeds do fine with a slow evening stroll around the block. Others need daily, vigorous exercise -- especially those that were originally bred for physically demanding jobs, such as herding or hunting. Without enough exercise, these breeds may put on weight and vent their pent-up energy in ways you don't like, such as barking, chewing, and digging. Breeds that need a lot of exercise are good for outdoorsy, active people, or those interested in training their dog to compete in a high-energy dog sport, such as agility.
Some dogs are perpetual puppies -- always begging for a game -- while others are more serious and sedate. Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog.
This small, sturdy dog has an intelligent and lively look that's almost human in expression. Brussels Griffons, often called Griffons for short, originated in Belgium, where their hunting skills were used to keep stables free of rats and mice. They eventually became more popular as house pets, and these cheerful, curious, and affectionate dogs do make great companions — for the right person.
They're sensitive, sometimes moody and high-strung, and more than a little demanding of their owner's attention. The rough-coated Griffon and the smooth-coated Griffon, called the Petit Brabancon. In the breed's homeland of Belgium, there are three types: The Griffons' flat face, prominent chin, and large, wide-set eyes have led to many comparisons to the Ewoks or Wookie creatures in Star Wars.
Despite their small size and cuddly looks, these sturdy dogs are suprisingly heavy and athletic. Many Griffons compete in agility, obedience, and other performance sports. Griffons usually get along well with other dogs and pets, but can be irritable with rowdy children. They're very affectionate and tend to bond most closely with one person in the family. They especially love to snuggle with their favorite person. Because they're small and active in the house, they make good apartment dogs, although you may have to train them not to bark at every noise they hear.
This unique breed isn't for everyone. The Griffon needs an owner who appreciates a dog that's up-close and personal rather than independent.
Empty nesters are often ideal, because Griffons are like children who never grow up and leave for college. Of course, this trait doesn't appeal to everyone. Griffons require a time commitment, not only because they want a lot of time and attention from their people, but also because they can live to be 14 or 15 years old. Brussels Griffons trace their roots back to Belgium, where small, terrier-like dogs were bred to hunt and kill vermin in stables, especially those of horse-drawn hansom cabs--the equivalent of today's taxi — in the cities.
The Affenpinscher contributed the size and wiry coat texture, while the Toy Spaniel influence is seen in the large, expressive eyes, rounded head, and upturned underjaw. In the smooth-coated variety of the Brussels Griffon, the Pug influence is seen. These crosses eventually created a small dog with great rat-hunting abilities and an almost human-looking face — the Brussels Griffon or, as they are called in Europe, the Griffon Bruxellois. Over time, these cocky little dogs became popular as house pets for both noblemen and workers.
By , Belgian breeders created a standard for the breed — a written description of how the breed should look--and started entering them in dog shows. Marie Henriette, Belgium's queen and a dog enthusiast, fell in love with the little Griffon Bruxellois and began breeding them and promoting them in Europe and abroad.
In , the Club du Griffon Bruxellois was formed in Brussels with the smooth-coated variety being called the Griffon Brabancon. Both rough-coated and smooth-coated Brussels Griffon were exported to England in the early s. In , the breed was admitted to the English Stud Book, and clubs formed to develop the breed. The Griffon found his way to the U. The American Kennel Club officially recognized the breed in The numbers of Griffons shrank during World Wars I and II, when breeding dogs — or even keeping a small dog as a pet — was a luxury that few could afford. By the end of World War II, Brussels Griffons were nearly extinct in their country of origin, Belgium, but they hung on in England, thanks to the efforts of English breeders.
Brussels Griffons have remained a fairly rare breed, although they became trendy for a time in the late s, and again in the late s, after a Griffon upstaged Jack Nicholson in the movie As Good As It Gets. Griffons typically stand 7 to 8 inches tall and weigh 7 to 12 pounds. Occasionally, a Griffon will grow to be 20 pounds, a throwback to the breed's larger ancestors. Dogs are individuals, and in this breed temperaments range from outgoing and active to reserved, verging on shy. Most fall somewhere in the middle of the spectrum.
The Brussels Griffon has a bossy streak and will run the household whenever he's allowed to, but beneath that tough-dog exterior he's a softie who loves being with his people and is in constant need of their time and attention. They're often called "Velcro dogs" because they like to stick close to your side. A Brussels Griffon who feels ignored will resort to misbehavior to get your attention. He dislikes being left home alone and will find a way to let you know of his displeasure. Temperament doesn't happen in a vacuum. It's affected by a number of factors, including heredity, training, and socialization.
Puppies with nice temperaments are curious and playful, willing to approach people and be held by them.
Rhodesian Ridgeback - Wikipedia
Choose the middle-of-the-road puppy, not the one who's beating up his littermates or the one who's hiding in the corner. Always meet at least one of the parents — usually the mother is the one who's available — to ensure that they have nice temperaments that you're comfortable with. Meeting siblings or other relatives of the parents is also helpful for evaluating what a puppy will be like when he grows up. Like every dog, Brussels Griffons need early socialization — exposure to many different people, sights, sounds, and experiences — when they're young.
Socialization helps ensure that your puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog. Enrolling him in a puppy kindergarten class is a great start. Inviting visitors over regularly, and taking him to busy parks, stores that allow dogs, and on leisurely strolls to meet neighbors will also help him polish his social skills. Brussels Griffons love their people, but they can be independent thinkers. Train them with kindness and consistency, using positive reinforcements that include food rewards and praise. The Brussels Griffon who's treated harshly will simply become more stubborn and less willing to do your bidding.
Your best bet is to keep training interesting. Keep training sessions short, and always end on a high note, praising him for something he did well. Griffons are generally healthy, but like all breeds, they're prone to certain health conditions. Not all Griffons will get any or all of these diseases, but it's important to be aware of them if you're considering this breed. If you're buying a puppy, find a good breeder who will show you health clearances for both your puppy's parents. Health clearances prove that a dog has been tested for and cleared of a particular condition.
In Griffons, you should expect to see health clearances from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals OFA for hip dysplasia with a score of fair or better , elbow dysplasia, hypothyroidism, and von Willebrand's disease; from Auburn University for thrombopathia; and from the Canine Eye Registry Foundation CERF certifying that eyes are normal. You can confirm health clearances by checking the OFA web site offa. Without a doubt, Griffons are housedogs. But so long as they're inside with the family, their small size makes them suited to any household, from city highrises to country estates.
In either place they can impress you with their inborn rat-hunting skill. They have a lot of energy and need regular exercise to stay in shape, but they'll do okay without a yard so long as they get walks or some other exercise every day. Because they're short-nosed dogs, they can't cool the air they breathe in, and can overheat on hot, humid days. Heat stroke is dangerous, so keep your Griffon someplace cool on a hot day. If you do take him out in the sun, watch for the signs of heat exhaustion — deep, rapid panting and sluggishness.
More serious signs include vomiting or diarrhea and seizures. Don't let him play hard on a hot day, and be sure he has access to plenty of fresh, cool water. His intelligence and athletic ability make the Griffon a contender in dog sports such as agility, obedience, and even tracking, as long as you persuade him that it's worthwhile.
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Training must be fun, and positive reinforcement — rewarding your dog for getting it right, rather than punishing him for mistakes — is the only way to get cooperation from a Griffon. You can't force a Griffon to do anything, but you can make him believe it's his idea. Like so many small breeds, Brussels Griffons can be hard to housetrain. Use crate training and be consistent and persistent, and your dog may eventually be reliable in the house. How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level.
Dogs are individuals, just like people, and they don't all need the same amount of food. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. The quality of dog food you buy also makes a difference — the better the dog food, the further it will go toward nourishing your dog and the less of it you'll need to shake into your dog's bowl. Keep your Griffon in good shape by measuring his food and feeding him twice a day rather than leaving food out all the time. If you're unsure whether he's overweight , give him the eye test and the hands-on test.
First, look down at him. You should be able to see a waist. Then place your hands on his back, thumbs along the spine, with the fingers spread downward. You should be able to feel but not see his ribs without having to press hard. If you can't, he needs less food and more exercise. For more on feeding your Griffon, see our guidelines for buying the right food , feeding your puppy , and feeding your adult dog. Rough-coated Brussels Griffons have a wiry, dense coat with no silky hair anywhere on their bodies.
The hair on the head is slightly longer around the eyes, cheeks, and chin. Although it's wiry, the rough coat should never appear untidy.
Smooth-coated Brussels Griffons have a straight, short, glossy coat that lies close to the body, with no trace of wiry hair. A mature Brussels Griffon may sport a gray muzzle, but otherwise you won't see any white hairs on him. To keep their coats looking neat, rough-coated Griffons must be brushed weekly with a natural bristle brush or hound glove to remove dead hair and then combed with a medium-tooth metal comb.
Twice a year they need specialized grooming. The coat must t be "hand stripped," which involves gently plucking loose hairs out by hand to allow new coat growth. Your BG's breeder can show you how to strip the coat, or you can find a professional groomer who knows how to do it — not all do. Stripping maintains the coat's hard, wiry texture and reduces scratching and shedding. And this type of coat is somewhat more friendly to people with allergies.
You can keep your BG in a schnauzer clip if you don't want to deal with the time or expense involved in stripping the coat, but if you have allergies it may be worth your while to have it done or learn to do it yourself.
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Clipping the coat makes it feel softer, and the dog will shed more than he does with his wiry coat. Smooth-coated Griffons, on the other hand, need very little grooming other than weekly brushing and an occasional bath when they start to smell doggy. If your Griffon likes to play outdoors and then nap on your sofa or bed, you may want to bathe him weekly. As long as you use a shampoo made for dogs and rinse thoroughly, this shouldn't dry out his skin or hair. Brush your Griffon's teeth at least two or three times a week to remove tartar buildup and the bacteria that lurk inside it.
Daily brushing is even better if you want to prevent gum disease and bad breath. Trim nails once or twice a month if your dog doesn't wear them down naturally. If you can hear them clicking on the floor, they're too long. Short, neatly trimmed nails keep the feet in good condition and prevent your legs from getting scratched when your Griffon enthusiastically jumps up to greet you.
Begin accustoming your Griffon to being brushed and examined when he's a puppy. Handle his paws frequently — dogs are touchy about their feet — and look inside his mouth and ears. Make grooming a positive experience filled with praise and rewards, and you'll lay the groundwork for easy veterinary exams and other handling when he's an adult. As you groom, check for sores, rashes, or signs of infection such as redness, tenderness, or inflammation on the skin, in the ears, nose, mouth, and eyes, and on the feet. Eyes should be clear, with no redness or discharge. Your careful weekly exam will help you spot potential health problems early.
Griffons don't enjoy hitting, unwanted hugs, being chased, or being forced to sit in someone's lap. If they're cornered or can't escape someone's grasp, they'll growl or snap. For these reasons, they're not a good match for homes with young children, who often don't understand that a cute little Griffon might not want their "love and kisses. It's fine to let your Griffon be around young kids — in fact, it's important to get him used to children , especially during puppyhood, when his temperament is still taking shape.
But always supervise your Griffon when children are around, and never let young kids pick him up; instead, make the child sit on the floor with the dog in his lap. Pay attention to the dog's body language, and put him safely in his crate if he looks unhappy or uncomfortable with the child's attention. Griffons usually get along well with other pets , but like most small breeds they're completely unaware of their size and will take on dogs much bigger than themselves.
Be prepared to protect them from themselves. Brussels Griffons are often purchased without any clear understanding of what goes into owning one. There are many Griffons in need of adoption and or fostering. There are a number of rescues that we have not listed. If you don't see a rescue listed for your area, contact the national breed club or a local breed club and they can point you toward a Griffon rescue.
The original standard allowed for a variety of coat colours, including brindle and sable. The modern FCI standard calls for light wheaten to red wheaten.
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Other dog breeds also have a reverse line of fur along the spine, including the Phu Quoc ridgeback dog and Thai ridgeback. The Thai ridgeback is a crossbreed of the Phu Quoc; historians have speculated the relationship between the Rhodesian Ridgeback and the Phu Quoc with suggestions that historically one breed may have been imported to the other's location. Rhodesian Ridgebacks are known to be loyal and intelligent.
They are typically somewhat aloof to strangers; this is not to be confused with aggression, a Rhodesian Ridgeback with a good temperament will not attack a stranger for no reason. They require positive, reward-based training, good socialization and consistency; they are often not the best choice for inexperienced dog owners. Despite Rhodesian Ridgebacks being extremely athletic and sometimes imposing, they do have a sensitive side.
Barnes, who wrote the first standard in , acknowledged that, "rough treatment They go to pieces with handling of that kind. The only disqualification in the AKC standard for this breed is "ridgelessness". This term refers to the purebred offspring of heterozygous parental animals that do not inherit a copy of the ridge mutation from either parent and are, in effect, normal dogs without a ridged back.
The most current research suggests that the ridge mutation is autosomal dominant with complete penetrance. Heterozygotes are detected by mating the animal in question to either known heterozygotes or known homozygous recessives other methods exist such as mating to offspring, but result in inbred offspring and a heterozygote is detected when a ridgeless pup is born.
Note that many matings are required to have a high probability of detecting a homozygous dominant once a ridgeless pup is produced, the animal in question is assumed to be heterozygous without question , and more than one sire can produce the pups in one litter. The latter fact can cast doubt on the calling of male heterozygotes by this method and could possibly lead to the results shown in studies testing the mode of inheritance of ridgelessness.
Traditionally, many ridgeback puppies were culled at birth for numerous reasons, including ridgelessness.
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Contemporary breeders are increasingly opting for surgical sterilisation of these offspring to ensure they will not be bred but can live into maturity as non-showing, non-breeding pets. Some breed parent clubs and canine registries in Europe have even made the culling of ridgeless whelps a requirement.
It was pointed out on the BBC One investigative documentary Pedigree Dogs Exposed that the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Great Britain's "code of ethics", which is ratified annually by the kennel club states that "Ridgeless puppies shall be culled", [24] and that "mismarked" puppies will only ever be sold on condition that they are never shown, and are neutered.
The historic and modern hunting uses of Rhodesian Ridgebacks have included everything from upland game birds to larger 'dangerous game'. While the hunting versatility of the breed has served it well in the field, it has caused much confusion and contention among ridgeback fanciers about what these dogs are, and are not, as hunting companions. Throughout its history, the Rhodesian Ridgeback has been a breed of dog that has somewhat defied the strict interpretation of most conventional group classification paradigms.
In Bulawayo, Southern Rhodesia Zimbabwe , Francis Barnes standardised the breed using the existing Dalmatian standard as a model - there was no mention of a preferred group placement. Although no parent club was 'officially' recognised at the time, in September the South African Kennel Union began taking "lion dog" registrations. On this second point Barnes was emphatic, stating "I am breeding a gundog. Although the Rhodesian Ridgeback's bird hunting prowess has been well known throughout the breed's history the original description from the South African parent club belabors this point in fact , it is important to note that the "gundog" classification made in s Southern Rhodesia and South Africa was not specifically about bird hunting.
To understand this it is necessary to understand the union's classification system at that time. The two likely categories Barnes could have chosen from within the SAKU classification system at that time were, "sporting" and "gundog". In the "sporting" group were the sighthounds and scenthounds. In the "gundog" group were the birddogs. This raises the question why Barnes rejected the group containing the sighthounds and scenthounds, and successfully lobbied in favour of the group containing the birddogs. Barnes' reasoning becomes clear with an understanding of the distinction between the two groups.
The union's "sporting" dogs were those that would find game above ground, and were then expected to dispatch the game without assistance. The union's "gundogs" were those that find game above ground, and the human hunter was then expected to dispatch the game by means of a firearm. Over time the culturally perceived meanings of the group labels had changed to those closer to their modern meanings, and the union eventually became a federated member of the FCI, and therefore adopted its group categorisation system.
By , Barnes had resigned from the Rhodesian Parent Club and prompted by the lobbying of a newer generation of leadership within the Rhodesian Parent Club, in the s, the breed's group classification was changed from "gundog" to "hound". Today, there are at least five competing theories concerning proper group placement for the Rhodesian Ridgeback. Scenthound - This theory arises from the fact that the southern African landscape in general, and the Zimbabwean landscape specifically, is an extremely varied and diverse terrain, where a true sighthound would be severely handicapped in its finding ability in the game producing cover of the bushveldt, thornveldt, and kopjes.
Proponents of the scenthound classification also observe that the ridgeback bears very little resemblance to the decidedly northern African desert breed sighthounds, in either form or function. And while proponents of this theory freely admit that ridgebacks are undoubtedly athletic 'running' dogs, they draw the distinction that ridgebacks do not pursue game by sheer speed, which is typical of the true sighthounds associated with the northern half of the continent.
Sighthound - This theory is based on the fact that some of the foundation stock used by Cornelius Van Rooyen during the creation of the breed was sighthound stock. Support for this theory has grown in areas most notably in the United States where ridgebacks have been allowed to compete with sighthounds in lure-coursing field trials. The theory's detractors contend that success in lure coursing trials does not in and of itself make a dog a true sighthound, and further bolster their contention by pointing out that ridgebacks are very poor performers when allowed to run in unofficial open field courses where they typically cannot keep up with the true sighthounds.
Even so, no one can argue that ridgebacks have not been successful at lure coursing events. In fact ridgebacks have been very competitive in almost every lure coursing venue in which they have been allowed to compete.
Proponents of this theory will often further defend it with a debated claim that while ridgebacks are versatile and use all their senses, their first and strongest inclination is to find game by sight—which itself is considered normal for dogs of any type, when the game is actually in sight. Cur-dog - This theory is based on the United Kennel Club 's the leading 'working dog' registry in the U. Quite the contrary, the UKC cur-dogs are pure-bred, versatile hunting and livestock dogs.
These pure breeds were typically developed by pioneering people who needed a dog that was highly protective of the family and farm, as well as a capable stock driver. Most importantly the dog was required to pursue various species of game both small and large game alike, in a manner inconsistent with the rest of the hounds sight or scent. The cur-dog does so using all of its senses - hearing, sight, and scent as the situation demands. Rhodesian Ridgeback lion dogs are unsurpassed for hunting and veld work. Ever faithful and loyal to their owners, highly intelligent and reliable guards.
This theory aligns itself with the current FCI classification of the breed, group 6. However, the important distinction in this theory is not that the FCI classification of "scenthound" is accurate, but rather, that placing the Dalmatian and the Rhodesian Ridgeback the only breeds currently in FCI group 6. This classification theory is generally supported by historical accounts that mirror the one offered by Phyllis Archdale who went to Southern Africa in and bred ridgebacks there in the s, "Old timers told me that in early days most Dutch transport riders had a Ridgehound as guard to their wagons.
They were used to bail up lion and wild pig. Ridged primitive - There is also a group of ridgeback fanciers who believe Rhodesian Ridgebacks should be thought of in terms of the FCI's group 5. FCI group 5 includes the spitz and related primitives. The theory's detractors note that the Rhodesian Ridgeback was not only developed in the late 19th century and standardised in the early 20th century, but developed specifically to "hunt to the gun" and as such is in fact a very modern creation, and anything but "primitive".
But supporters of the theory contend that enough of the foundational stock is ancient, including the greyhound and the Khoikhoi dog from which the ridged back derives , that even though it was developed relatively recently and for use with modern firearms, the breed can still be considered to be of a "primitive type".
Presently, the breed is categorised as a "hound" by every major registry throughout the world. For example, the British Kennel Club and the Canadian Kennel club both categorise the Rhodesian Ridgeback as a hound, without any further specification. The FCI, the largest international canine governing body, which looks to the parent club in the country of origin the parent club in Zimbabwe for the breed standard and group classification, currently further distinguishes the Rhodesian Ridgeback as a scenthound.
Health conditions that are known to affect this breed are hip dysplasia and dermoid sinus. The ridgeback ranks number six in terms of most affected breeds for thyroid problems recorded by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. Dermoid sinus is a congenital neural-tube defect that is known to affect this breed. The dermoid is often likened to a thin "spaghetti strand" beneath the skin. Puppies should always be screened at birth by the breeder and veterinarian, and the examination repeated as the puppies grow before they go to their new homes. This is done by palpation of the subcutaneous dorsal midline from the base of the skull to the insertion of the tail.
Surgical removal is an option for affected neonates, puppies and adult dogs. All affected dogs, even those surgically corrected, should be spayed or neutered and never be bred, since surgical dermoid sinus removal can be extremely cost prohibitive, and because many unremoved dermoid sinuses will eventually abscess.