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• The Autobiography of A Cornish Smuggler
• The Smuggler of King's Cove or the Old Chapel Mystery

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In The Spotlight. From whichever angle you approach, it is completely hidden until you are right upon it. With some careful watch-keeping and a bit of judicious signalling, a ship anchored offshore could be warned off if revenue men were sniffing around. It didn't always go to plan, of course. Harry Carter tells of an attempted drop-off at Cawsand, further east. Seeing two boats heading out to his ship, he assumes they belong to his colleagues.

Too late he realises that they are full of revenue officers. His crew panic and dart below before the ship is boarded, leaving Harry the only man prepared to put up a defence. He is overpowered and knocked down. Twice the revenue men discuss putting him down below with the others and twice they don't bother, on the assumption that he is either dead or nearly dead. With his skull "shot to atoms", Harry manages to clamber over the side and tries to swim ashore.

Luck must be on his side, however, as by hauling his way along some ropes he finds himself in shallow water. Eventually he meets some friends, and is whisked across country to his brother Charles's house. In Bessy's Cove we can see bricked-up caves, steep steps leading down to a tiny pebble beach, and a slipway running diagonally up the further side of the cove. We climb down the steps to find a few parties of swimmers, mostly in black wetsuits, and family groups making the best of rather weak sun.

Climbing back up the steps and continuing west, we find some tumbledown shacks at the top of the path leading to the slipway. The shacks themselves may not date from the Carter brothers' time but from this vantage point we can see a thatched cottage and the property now called Cliff Cottage, which is thought to have started life as a fish cellar.

Its size and proximity to the cove suggest that it owes a debt to the Carter's smuggling operations. If, as some stories relate, John Carter did contract a tunnel from the cove, this house would seem a likely destination.

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3. ESCAPE TO THE COVE?

The coastal path continues to the west, skirting around Piskies Cove, a tiny natural beach without the obvious advantages of Bessy's Cove but no doubt useful in emergencies. The footpath passes above a huge gaping cave and then on to Cudden Point, owned by the National Trust. From the sea cliffs the ground slopes gently up towards the main road between Helston and Penzance, although it would have been little more than a track in Harry Carter's time.

In between are tiny hamlets and isolated farmsteads. Harry and his brothers would have known every home and every person in this strip of land. John Carter rented the farm here, and while the owners were away, he was able to hide his brother in the house after his escape at Cawsand.

The Autobiography of A Cornish Smuggler

Harry writes that he only dared to light a fire at night, for fear of the smoke giving away his position. He still went down to Bessy's Cove at night for a drink of grog and some banter. In the end he into exile in New York. Perran Sands, by the village of Perranuthnoe, is dotted with bathers and surfers. We stop at the cafe for a late lunch, and again for ice cream. Then it's time to return across the fields, following field boundaries and sunken lanes connecting the farmsteads and hamlets.

It's been a wet summer and the tracks are filled with mud. Our smugglers would used these, and we are only attempting paths that are marked as rights of way, so there must have been many more.

The Smuggler of King's Cove or the Old Chapel Mystery

Eventually we find our way back to Kenneggy, where the dog collapses on the front seat and we put the kettle on. That night we tuck into fish and chips accompanied by a glass of red wine, surrounded by families in tents and caravans. We realise the sheer struggle to survive in those times — of which smuggling was a small but indicative part — is so alien to us that it is almost impossible to imagine.