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Sights, Culture, Food, Shopping & Fun

Once past the modern suburbs, BURGAU, 5km west of Luz, is a pretty little former fishing village of narrow cobbled lanes which tumble down a steep hillside to a fine sandy beach set below low cliffs. Fishing boats still line the lower roads, which double up as slipways, while narrow alleys weave around to a miradouro viewpoint.

In July and August the village is somewhat mobbed, but at other times it retains a distinct character, with locals cooking fish on tiny grills outside their homes. Many of the old houses are now converted into inexpensive holiday lets: look for signs in the windows. A plume of modern development spreads steeply uphill, but at least the white villas are in keeping with the old town, and its beach only gets busy in high season.

Nevertheless, the rocky coastline is punctuated by fantastic broad beaches accessible from the small villages of Carrapateira, Odeceixe or, a little further inland, Aljezur. This is popular territory for surfers, campervanners and hardy nudists who appreciate the remote beaches, but be warned: the sea can be dangerous and swimmers should take great care. The more interesting historic centre spreads uphill beyond the bridge over the Aljezur River, a network of narrow cobbled streets reaching up through whitewashed houses to the remains of an eleventh-century Moorish castle, a lovely picnic spot and where you can see the remains of the cistern and grain silos.

His well-observed landscapes and religious scenes are complemented by the attractive house and pretty garden. Some 10km southwest of Aljezur, Praia da Arrifana is a superb, sandy sweep set below high, crumbling black cliffs which shelter a tiny fishing harbour. The beach is excellent, and surf competitions are sometimes held here. Before the river silted up in the fifteenth century, Aljezur was a major port, and the route passes buildings such as the tollhouse, once used to check weights and goods as they arrived.

Sleepy out of season, its character changes in summer when it attracts a steady stream of surfers, campervanners and families, lured by a superb beach and a very laidback atmosphere. The beach, Praia de Odeceixe, is 4km west of the village, reached down a verdant river valley, the fields either side neatly cultivated with corn. Praia de Odeceixe is one of the most sheltered beaches along this stretch of coast, offering superb surfing and relatively safe swimming, especially when the tide is out.

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The only time the place gets busy is during the Moorish Nights in July — a four-day festival of Arabic food and Moorish-inspired events, including a souk. The beach below the village has been rated as one of the best in the world, and it would be hard not to agree. From here a ferryman can take you over to the beach daily in summer, but only during good weather the rest of the year.

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The streets surrounding the cultural centre have a certain low-key charm, bristling with linen shops, electrical retailers and grocers, while the riverside gardens offer fine views across to the splash of white that is Ayamonte in Spain. A whitewashed former fishing village nestled into sea cliffs, the small resort of CARVOEIRO must once have been very attractive, but now its small cove beach has to support the prostrate bodies of hundreds of tourists shipped in to what has become an overblown resort.

Apart from the obvious activities such as swimming, sunbathing and generally just relaxing and enjoy the beach, there are other places to explore should you want more of an adventure. From the beach itself, local fisherman run boat trips to the nearby caves. You can also visit the impressive rock formations of Algar Seco, 1km east of town, where steps lead down low cliffs to a series of dramatic overhangs above blow holes and grottoes.

They are accessible via the coast road, or by a road train that trundles out from Carvoeiro every hour or so. First up is Praia da Caneiros, with a rock stack jutting from the sea off its lovely beach and a superb beachside restaurant, Rei das Praias. The Summer months in Carvoeiro can be quite hot, the best time to visit the Algarve region is between April and June, when temperatures sit nicely at around 25 degrees, the same for September and October. It is never particularly cold, with the lowest avergae temperature sitting at 11 degrees in January, when rainfall is at its highest.

Carvoeiro is a small town, so once you've explored it's streets and relaxed on the beaches, you may be looking for a day trip. Nearby is Silves, a historical town with a Moorish castle and pretty riverside walks. A nice way to see Silves is by taking a boat trip up the Arade River from Portimao. Although much of the town was razed in the earthquake, it still boasts a sixteenth-century Igreja Matriz with Manueline doors and pillars carved into fishing ropes and plants. Two-hour boat trips to various places along the coast leave from here.

Praia de Alvor is a beach of stunning measures - spanning several kilometres, the sands are soft and the waters blue. Go World Travel Magazine covers world travel in more than 90 countries.

Loulé: The #1 Guide to This Picturesque Town in the Algarve []

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Loulé, Portugal

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