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The Couple Who Held Hands on the Camino de Santiago is a detailed account of a tea drinking dog fearing vegetarian's long distance walk with her husband on the Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago in Spain in the.
Table of contents

After his beheading by Herod, his body was brought back, but only discovered many years later and taken to Santiago. In front of it are huge boulders, a place of spiritual and physical healing. The Pedra de Abalar, or rocking stone, is famous for its curative powers, but my feet are beyond help. Hotel upgrades in bigger towns and airport transfers are also available. Vueling is a member of the International Airlines Group IAG and offers low cost and flexible travel to over destinations, operating from 8 regional airports across the UK and Ireland. The Travel Magazine. Home Europe Spain.

Spain Travel Articles. Life is a camino c Rupert Parker. The Liechtenstein Trail: Walking the length of a country in a weekend. At one point the Camino deviated back onto a two-land highway and while walking there, we heard a loud honk which startled us. What a coincidence again!

On top of it all, my mom began to feel ill and I had to run around the town looking for a pharmacy. Luckily, she saw the doctor who prescribed her some medication and she is quickly recovering and feeling better. Luis too had an exhausting ride. When we met up in the evening he told me that the last 8 kilometers of his day was all climb and up hill. This is cyclist-ville! There are hundreds and hundreds of cyclists all over the place and Luis told us that swarms of them would pass by him and cheer him on.

Today was the most pleasant day thus far, at least in my opinion, although it was incredibly long, 28 kilometers. We left Guernika very early and followed the Camino through the mountain.

When did you first hear of the Camino?

Given that my mom had not been feeling well the night before, we decided to take it easy and walk at a very slow leisurely pace. The Camino began to ascend and for the first hour and a half of the day we found ourselves walking through rocks, mud and branches. As we progress each day we begin to familiarize ourselves with the Camino and learn its intricacies.

As a peregrino, you unintentionally begin to personify the Camino and love or hate it depending on what it throws at you. My mother and I both agree that we prefer when the Camino takes us on paved roads rather than through mountain trails.


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At around noon, my mom and I stopped at the top of the mountain and caught our breath. We had a snack a piece of fruit and enjoyed the degree view. In the distance you could see rolling hills, farms full of cattle, goats, and sheep. We followed the yellow arrows and proceeded down the mountain. Our goal was to get to a small town called Larraetzu 22 kilometers from where we had started. Under the blazing sun and in the tremendous heat, we exited the mountain and took the Camino down a two-lane asphalt road.

We arrived in Larraetzu, a quaint charming little town where everything was closed. Between noon and 4 pm all commerce closes in Spain. There was a couple sitting next to us who asked us where we were from. They told us they were from Larraetzu and owned the only newspaper shop in town, about 10 meters from where we were sitting. They lived above the shop and had been living there since birth. She expressed that she wanted her daughter to run it once she grew old.

In many ways, I long for her simplicity. On our way into Zamudio we came across two other peregrinos that were taking a snooze under a tree. These were the only two other peregrinos we saw today. They told us they were going as far as Bilbao. After 28 kilometers, just the thought of walking another 11 kilometers exhausted me. In Zamudio, we waited for Luis to arrive who came in like a champion.

He continues to amaze us and inspire us. He rode 28 kilometers in the summer heat and never stopped for even one second. Although he said the first half of the trip was treacherous all uphill , he said the latter half was pleasant as the highway offered him a wide shoulder to ride on.

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Today was a very short walking day, only Again we woke up very early and departed the hotel by 8 am. Between one thing and another, washing our clothes and writing in our journal, we typically fall asleep around midnight. The Camino immediately took us through the mountain. It took us just under two hours to ascend the mountain, and at the very top of Monte Avril, we had a degree viewof the city of Bilbao.

Putting all our weight on our two knees, we slowly came down the mountain and entered the city. So much of this journey depends on the health and strength of your knees.

Camino de Santiago: What you need to know

Once inside the city, the Camino took us by the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Begona and my mother and I decided to enter it. There happened to be a mass taking place so we sat in. In different ways, the Camino of Santiago is always sending you messages of spirituality. Although we had only walked Nevertheless, we got to the hotel, put our bags down and set off to visit the extraordinarly famous Guggenheim Museum. What an experience!

Just setting foot in the museum makes the stop in Bilbao worthwhile. There was also a Richard Serra exhibit taking place and we enjoyed being able to participate in the installation and go through it. We met up with Luis back at the hotel who told us he ended up riding 21 kilometers to get here!

Camino de Santiago, October

Somehow, somewhere, someone got lost. Nevertheless, you could immediately tell he was happy. The problem was that to get it fixed he had to wait until 4pm when all the shops re-opened. So he did just that. At 5 pm he set off for Bilbao with a whole new tire! Despite having the bike in the easiest gear, he was averaging no more than 3 kilometers per hour. Once inside Bilbao, Luis reminisced that everyone would cheer him on, that pedestrians would stare in awe, and that people were fascinated by the unique bicycle. Yet every step we take is one step closer to finding a cure for paralysis thanks to your support.

Bilbao woke us up with a cloudy day, cold and drizzling. We dressed accordingly, with long pants and sweatshirts, and stopped in a small cafe for breakfast.

Camino de Santiago -- Day 14 -- Viana to LogroƱo

The Camino took us through the outskirts of the city, through an industrial zone full of factories, cranes and garbage. Nevertheless, we walked alongside the Ria Bilbao and came across another peregrino who was travelling on his own. We introduced ourselves to Jordi and immediately turned him into a Walkabout ambassador. I think by the time we get to Santiago there will be more Walkabout logos along the Camino than sign posts for the actual trail. Walking through Portugalete, we became better acquainted wit Jordi.


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He told us all about his life in Alicante and how he hoped to change jobs, which at the present entailed loading boxes of candy in and out of trucks. His perspective on the Camino made me reflect on my own reasons for undertaking such a challenge. I want to test my limits and my endurance, but most importantly I am here to build awareness for paralysis and raise funds for spinal cord injury research.

My mother and I walked with Jordi down a paved pedestrian path for three hours straight, non-stop. The path was through a valley, surrounded by steep hillsides that were grazed by cows. The Camino brings you in touch with nature and makes you appreciate the beauty of it in ways you have never done so before. At around pm after walking 26 kilometers, we reached the small town of Zierbana and stopped at its main attraction, Playa La Arena. My legs were numb, my back was soar, and my third blister on my pinkie had gotten much worse.

Limping down the street, my mom and I bid farewell to Jordi and stepped into a restaurant for a much needed lunch. After a short nap, I greeted him in the lobby with my camcorder in hand and filmed his visit. Although sometimes I wonder if video clips and journal entries can do the Camino justice. The Camino is magical and mystical, inspiring and illuminating. The Camino is difficult and painful, rewarding and encouraging.