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Its northern Caribbean coastline measures km, compared to a km Pacific coastline in the south, and its total land area is 78, sq km. Panama is just 50km wide at its leanest point, yet it separates two great oceans. The Panama Canal, which is about 80km long, effectively divides the country into eastern and western regions.

Panama's two mountain ranges run along its spine in both the east and the west. Like all of the Central American countries, Panama has large, flat coastal lowlands with huge banana plantations.

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There are about rivers in Panama and islands near its shores. The two main island groups are the San Blas and Bocas del Toro archipelagos on the Caribbean side, but most of the islands are on the Pacific side.

Even the Panama Canal has islands, including Isla Barro Colorado, which has a world-famous tropical-rainforest research station. Although Panama is still largely undiscovered, more and more visitors are drawn to its remarkable wildlife. In the sea, shallow coral-reef beds support countless varieties of tropical fish, while hammerheads and manta rays roam deeper waters. In the air, nearly a thousand avian species make Panama one of the top birdwatching destinations in the world. Around 65 million years ago, North and South America were joined by a land bridge not unlike what exists today.

Around 50 million years ago, the continents split apart and remained separate for millions of years. During this time, unique evolutionary landscapes were created on both continents. South America experienced an astonishing diversification of many species. The land soon gave rise to many bird families toucans and hummingbirds included , unique neotropical rodents agoutis and capybaras and groups such as iguanas, poison-dart frogs and basilisks.

In North America, which collided repeatedly with Eurasia, animal species that had no relatives in South America horses, deer, raccoons, squirrels and mice flourished. The momentous event that would change natural history for both continents occurred around three million years ago when the land bridge of Panama arose. Species from both continents mingled: northern animals went south and southern animals went north. In the lush forests and wetlands along the isthmus, the great variety of plant species created ideal conditions for nourishing wildlife.

Today the interchange of species between North and South America is limited to winged migrations, an annual event that can be breathtaking to behold. Panama also boasts avian species, which is the largest number in Central America. Panama's many species of primate include white-faced capuchins, squirrel monkeys, spider monkeys and howler monkeys. These tiny, gregarious monkeys can live in groups of up to 40 in lowland forest, and many weigh less than g. Big cats prowl the jungles of Panama. Jaguars, pumas, ocelots, jaguarundis and margays are all found on the isthmus. The jaguar is the largest cat in the Americas, needing large tracts of land in order to survive.

Without sufficient space, the big cats gradually exhaust their food supply which numbers 85 hunted species and perish. They are excellent swimmers and climbers and at times are spotted resting on sunny riverbanks.

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Reefs found off both coasts support a plethora of tropical fish, and visitors to the national marine parks might spot humpback whales, reef sharks, bottlenose dolphins, and killer or sperm whales. Underwater, hammerheads, whale sharks, blacktip and whitetip sharks and occasionally tiger sharks also visit. All sea turtles evolved from terrestrial species and the most important stage of their survival happens on land when they come to nest. Arribadas arrivals are rare events that occur when thousands of female sea turtles flood the beach to lay their eggs.

It mostly happens in the wet season usually September to October during the first and last quarter of the moon. Quetzals, macaws, amazons, parrots and toucans all have sizable populations here, as do many species of tanager and raptor. One of the most sought-after birds is the harpy eagle, the national bird of Panama.

It's recognizable by its huge size, its broad, black chest band with white underneath, its piercing yellow eyes and its prominent, regal crest. The elusive, emerald-green quetzal lives in habitats throughout Central America, but Panama is one of the best places to see it. The male has an elongated wing covert train and a scarlet breast and belly, while females have duller plumage. Quetzals are best spotted in the breeding season, from March to June, when males grow their spectacular trains and start calling for mates.

From August to December, North American raptors migrate south into Central America by the millions — at times, there are so many birds that they make a black streak across the sky. In Bocas del Toro, keep an eye out for kettling hawk migrations — October is the best month to see them in large numbers.

The migration of turkey vultures over the islands in early March and again in October is another striking sight. These big, black-bodied, red-necked birds can streak the sky and are able to soar for long periods without a single flap as they migrate between southern Canada and Tierra del Fuego. Ocelots are nocturnal, elusive and native to Panama.

The scent, which contains pheromones that appeal to both humans and animals, was sprayed on a tree. The result? The ocelots rubbed up against bark doused in the scent. But, according to Ziegler, the attraction not unlike many a hormonal drive proved fleeting. There are threatened species in Panama.

Laws meant to curb illegal hunting are widely ignored due to lack of enforcement. For example, keeping a parrot, toucan or macaw in a cage is a fineable offense in Panama. Nonetheless, it's common to see them in cages, even in some public venues. If you see caged animals at a hotel, complain to the manager, take your business elsewhere and report the crime to APPC www. Other vegetation zones include dry tropical rainforest and grassland on the Pacific coast, cloud forest in the highlands, alpine vegetation on the highest peaks and mangrove forest on both coasts and around many islands.

Among the flora, Panama has over 10, species of plant, including approximately orchid species, fern species and species of tree.

In a country known for its biodiversity, the disappearance of species is unsettling on many levels. But there may be even greater concern over species not yet identified, particularly in light of rapid habitat destruction. We may never understand their roles in local ecosystems or potential contributions toward scientific research.

In recent years, scientists have made these findings:. Bush dog Speothos venaticus Rare and nocturnal. A foot tall, it resembles a small pig and keeps company in aggressive packs in the tropical forests of Central and South America. Its habitat, near the borders, is threatened by clear cutting. Tiny and orange, it's no bigger than a fingernail. Habitat loss is a serious concern as it only exists in a very reduced area. River dolphin Isthminia panamensis Now extinct, it lived some six million years ago.

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As whales and dolphins evolved from terrestrial to marine mammals, these river dolphins represent a reversal, as the species turned inland to freshwater ecosystems. In many of the national parks and protected areas there are mestizo and indigenous villages. In some scenarios these communities help protect and maintain the park. Panama recently decided to make entry to national parks free, with the exception of Parque Nacional Coiba. Visitors still must register upon entry.

Permits to camp or stay at a ranger station can generally be obtained at a regional office or ranger station within the park. In Panama City, the hectare Parque Natural Metropolitano protects vast expanses of tropical semideciduous forest within the city limits. It remains largely overlooked since access is difficult, requiring a good 4WD or at least an hour's walk to reach the entrance.

It offers prime birdwatching and the possibility of viewing both the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. It also contains a series of pools said to have therapeutic properties. Although the province of Los Santos has no national parks, there is an attractive wildlife refuge and a protected area frequented by nesting sea turtles. In Veraguas, Parque Nacional Coiba is one of the largest marine parks in the world. The aquatic life here is astounding. Although largely unexplored, La Amistad offers several excellent day hikes, and local indigenous guides lead overnight excursions.

Turtles nest on its beaches and its abundant marine life makes for great snorkeling and diving. Wekso, as this sector of the park is called, is home to several indigenous groups, pristine rainforest and abundant wildlife.

The heart of this Unesco World Heritage Site is Cana, a former mining valley that is now regarded as one of the best birdwatching spots in the world. Unfortunately, at the time of writing, authorization was closed for visits to this area. This private reserve is one of the best places in the country to see the harpy eagle. Meanwhile, illegal hunting, settling and logging take place inside parks. Development projects such as dams and mines are allowed to proceed without meaningful environmental-impact assessments.

This green-light approach to divvying up environmental resources has stirred the utmost concern in conservation circles. Illegal logging now accounts for nearly half of Panama's timber industry, according to a report by the Ministerio de Ambiente. Just over three decades ago, the region north of Yaviza — the town where the Interamericana ends — was covered with virgin forest. Unfortunately, everything changed when the highway was extended from Chepo to Yaviza.