Wormfood

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Avoid any obstacles; they will only slow you down in your conquest to devour all of the villagers on the screen. There are 3 awards in Worm Food.

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Video Walkthrough Back to Game. We use OneSignal to send you the latest news in the world of Miniclip! Items such as vegetables, fruit, used coffee grounds, and egg shells are ideal. These food items should be free of grease and fats such as cooking oil and butter.


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  • How Vermicomposting Works?

If you live in a rural area and have access to aged cow manure this makes both an excellent bedding and food material. If you feed your worms kitchen waste consider cutting up the pieces into small pieces, or even running them through the food processor. This will help jump start the decomposition process, smaller pieces break down much more quickly than larger pieces.

This especially helpful with tough vegetables such as broccoli stalks, cauliflower, cabbage leaves, and root vegetables. One exception to this is when you plan on being out of town for vacation.

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This is when we put tough vegetable matter in the bin. Sometimes it can take weeks for tough matter to break down; this gives the worms a long term food source. Another method of breaking down material is to put the fruit and vegetable scraps in plastic storage bags and placing them in the freezer for a few days. When thawed out this material quickly becomes mushy and breaks down rapidly. Freezing also kills off seeds and little critter eggs that may be along for the ride. For the really dedicated there is thawing frozen worm food in the micro-wave, I will admit that we have done this more than once during the winter when we keep a 5 gallon bucket on the porch filled with vegetables.

Again this aids in the break down process of vegetative matter.

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For the worm farmer raising worms in large bins indoors or outdoors which they will sell to vermicomposters or for bait the same food sources used by the home vermicomposter are fine. However for consistency sake, not to mention a steady food source, these types of operations will often use commercially produced worm food, such as Purina Worm Chow.

Or they will mix up their own blend of prepared worm food to reach a well-balanced diet of nitrogen and carbon. For worm farmers wanting to produce large size worms or are focusing on castings getting worms should be fed a consistent diet of highly nutritious food. Arguably the absolute best food source for worms is animal manure. Both home vermicomposters and commercial worm farmers use animal manure as their primary food source with great success. Manure is nutrient rich and composting worms thrive in it. In fact when you visit a farm you would likely find plenty of red worms in the nearest mound of aging horse manure.

Some types of manure are much better for your worms than others. Composting worms do best in aged manure; in fact fresh manure is so rich in nitrogen that dumping it straight into your bins would likely have some negative effects on your worms. Even aged manure should be mixed with other materials such as peat moss or shredded paper. You should also consider where you are getting your manure from. A small horse ranch that immediately moves manure to piles will likely provide some good clean manure.

While a large industrial farm where manure comes into contact with urine, other feed sources, and even chemicals may have manure that can be downright dangerous to worms.

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The most common type of manure in used by worm farmers is aged horse manure. Hog manure and cattle manure are also a popular choice; however with these manures the solids should be separated out. Some worm farms do report good success with rabbit manure and even some more exotic manure like llama manure. Others use chicken manure from their chicken coops. However be very cautious when using bird droppings; which again are very high in nitrogen.

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We strongly suggest mixing some carbon to bird droppings to offset the nitrogen. No matter what manure you choose to feed your worms we strongly recommend you let it age before you use it as a bedding or food source. Another problem with fresh manure, or any composting material, is that it goes through an initial hot composting stage.

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In other words the composting process generates heat. Large quantities of fresh composting materials can actually heat up a worm bin enough where worms will try to escape or worse die. We find that pre-composting for a about a week works well for manure.

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We also pre-compost many other foods we intend on using for worm food. One exception is material we add to our compost tumbler where it is allowed to compost for weeks, or months on end. This composted material is a key part of our preferred bedding mixture. Compost worms have a hearty appetite, theoretically able to eat more than their body weight each day.


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However that consumption potential is under ideal conditions and the average worm farmer should not expect their worms eat quite that much. Instead we estimate how many worms, by pound, are in various bins.