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Leaves should not be composted in your home garden compost as it does not get hot enough to kill the spores and bacteria that may be on the plant. Additional fall care consists of cleaning up the area around the peony and adding compost six inches from the base of the stem. Compost should not be piled directly on the peony as any layered soil will make the peony too deep and may keep it from flowering in coming years.

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Carefully check the surface around the stem to ensure the pink or white eyes remain 0. If desired, add fish and seaweed emulsion, bone meal or a slow release fall fertilizer according to package directions to give your plants a little boost for fall. Because Intersectional Peonies are a cross between Tree and Herbaceous peonies their fall care consists of aspects of both parents. The leaves should be plucked off once they begin to fall, similar to a tree peony. Intersectional peonies should then be trimmed back so that the herbaceous portion of the stem is removed and the hard wood portion remains.

Determining this location takes some experience so we recommend that you leave the plant the first year and let it die back naturally so that you can see for yourself where this location is. Typically mature intersectional peonies will leave four to five inches of hard wood above ground. The leaves and stems should be thrown away, they should not be composted in your home garden compost as it does not get hot enough to kill the spores and bacteria that may be on the plant.

After you clean up the area around the peony add compost six inches from the base of the stem.

Like herbaceous peonies, compost should not be piled directly on the peony as any layered soil will make the peony too deep and may keep it from flowering in coming years. If you have peonies and you are anticipating a large frost after your peonies have begun to sprout you can place an overturned pot or light sheet over the plants just before the frost. This will protect the forming buds from any added stress that the frost can cause, which may hamper the bloom. Just don't forget to remove the covering as soon as possible. That being said, we have thousands of peonies and rarely cover any of our plants during frost and our peonies still bloom well and remain beautiful.

This frost hardiness is especially true for tree peonies that emerge very early in the season. We have had plants with blossoms ready to open get frosted and they have opened beautifully not too long after. Just be careful not to touch your peonies when they are frozen as it will cause them to break.

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If your peonies are in full flower flowers completely open and you are anticipating frost it is best to cover them to reduce the impact of the frost. After the bloom, unless you are interested in seeing if your peony will produce seeds, deadhead your peonies to promote root growth over seed formation.

Tree Peonies: Cut the stem just below the spent flower. This years green shoots will become next years woody branch. For those interested in collecting and propagating seeds please see the section below on Propagating Peonies. Most herbaceous peonies will need to be staked up to support the heavy blossoms in the spring. The necessity of support for your herbaceous peony will be determined by the flower form and height of your plant.

Intersectional and tree peonies typically do not require staking of any kind. Occasionally very mature tree peonies will need some support for some of their longer branches. The need for this will likely depend on the plant height and shape. Tall varieties will need some support over time while dwarf varieties will not.

Individual herbaceous peonies can be staked using peony grow through rings or tomato cages.

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If using one of these methods it is important to place the cages on the plants before they begin to leaf out and let the plant grow into the rings. Our preferred method of staking peonies uses tall pieces of rebar or bamboo placed around the plant. On an individual plant we use three of these stakes and tie them together with large cloth ribbon. This can be done after the plants leaf out, just before they bloom.

Interweave the ribbon around and through the plant for maximum support. If you use tall stakes you can tie multiple layers of ribbon around the plant to support the blossoms as they grow. For ribbon we use 1 inch weight, heavyweight black cotton twill. When staking peonies be sure not to overly reduce air flow through the plant as this will promote disease in the garden.

If you support your peonies using stakes and ribbon cut the ribbon off and let the plant breathe after it has finished flowering. If you are experiencing a white powder like covering on the leaves of your peony you have powdery mildew in your garden. Symptoms: Leaves turn white.

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Onset is in late June through September. It is not fatal and tree peonies are less prone than herbaceous peonies to this fungus. In some years powdery mildew is worse than others. It can infect plants when there are hot days, high humidity, and cool nights. Once the plant is infected there are virtually no sprays or oils that will completely rid the plant of powdery mildew this year.

However there are some preventative remedies to keep your plants from getting powdery mildew in coming years. These include the following: Bacillus subtilis to boost plant's natural defenses; neem oil or other horticultural oils after the leaves have formed; baking soda spray 1t baking soda, 1qt. All pesticides should be used according to package directions and remedies should be tried on portions of the plant prior to making large scale applications. The cooperative extension service in New Jersey recommends potassium bicarbonate at day intervals. This helps not only peonies, but all plants susceptible to powdery mildew.

Click here to read more. Symptoms: Stalks wilt and die, buds turn black. Onset is typically in early spring but can be at any time when temperatures remain below 70 degrees. Botrytis is especially prevalent when the weather is cool, wet and humid. Botrytis is easy to treat, but can kill peonies and other plants when not treated so it is especially important to pay attention to signs of the fungus. Botrytis thrives in cool humid conditions and can be minimized by planting peonies where they have good air circulation.

Throw out the diseased portions; do not compost. A more aggressive option would be to use systemic fungicide labeled for use on peonies. The cooperative extension service of New Jersey recommends Ferban and Manebrom. Follow all instructions on the label carefully and trial pesticides on small portions of the plant before making large scale applications. We emphasize using a systemic product and continuing to treat according to the label instructions as the disease persists.

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Remember that prevention is key. Make sure your garden is kept clean and that air circulates around your plants.

Botrytis is common and when seen in your garden can persist for years through spores in the soil. There are several diseases that can cause blotches on the leaves or cause the plant to turn black, wilt and portions to die.

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Typically peonies are hardy and will come back beautifully next year but if the disease is affecting new peonies, or is left unchecked for several years, it can become critical. When in doubt, send a sample to your county's agricultural extension office for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations.

Here is a link to the Rutgers extension office diagnostic submission form that we use. Plants can be treated with a systemic fungicide that will most likely cure the disease. But at Peony's Envy we like to know what exactly is going on with our peonies so we have them tested at the local agricultural extension office and treat them more specifically.