Manual The Inner Studio: A Designers Guide to the Resources of the Psyche

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If you only have a. Consider what fabric, lining, zips and trims you want to use.

Be specific about the fabric composition, weight and colour. Do not forget to add this information to your design specifications and tech pack. Not all colour options are available when you are buying only a couple of metres for sampling. It will take longer to produce a custom colour of the fabric or trims than purchasing off the shelf stock options which are usually available with short lead times.

If you are going to have a design on your garment, you need to decide where it should be placed. You will also need to consider or discuss with your potential manufacturer various garment printing methods and types to choose what is best for your design and garment type. Measure the placement and record it in the tech pack.

This placement forms an important part of the production process, as some logos and prints may not work well on different fabrics. Clothing labels and their placement are also an important consideration and should include details of print or tag design based on your requirements. The best way is to make a visualisation of the placement in your tech pack. Next, you need patterns cut of your designs.

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What are patterns and what is pattern making? Patterns are construction blocks and blueprints for your garment. Unless you have experience of pattern cutting, searching for a specialist on Sewport will ensure you get the best results. Imagine a plain basic T-shirt with all the seams. It has 4 panels — 4 parts: 2 sleeves, the front and the back. Now imagine you unpick all the seams from this T-shirt and put the pieces of fabric on the table. You have 4 pieces of a specific shape.

The shapes are cut from fabric using the template shapes created by a pattern cutter. These are required for production to be consecutive so that each item has the same measurements and fit. No great effort is required on your end, just find a pattern cutting professional who can help. An important note is to ask the pattern cutter about the ownership of the patterns before you engage. It is also good to know if your pattern cutter can supply you with patterns in a digital format. This will save you some time when working with a clothing manufacturer, as you will be able to supply the patterns electronically.

Most clothing factories can work with any pattern format, but more modern production companies prefer digital ones.

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Lektra, Assyst, Gerber are the top choices of pattern making software. Sample making is the most important stage. Exciting as it might be, it often takes a couple of rounds of samples before you feel the garment is perfect. Do not expect the clothing manufacturer or sampling studio to get it right on the first trial. It is not something that happens very often. Keep in mind that you are creating a completely new product with the combination of fabric, design and fit that has never been done before.

Some practise and adjustments will make it perfect. Test your sample rigorously. Wear it, stretch it, wash it, wear it again. See if the fabric shrinks or stretches out after washing and by how much. Adjust your next sample accordingly. If it is a sports item then test its comfortability and utility use.

Do the seams hold? Does the print stay on or it washes away?

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Real life testing is important as you do not want to get a negative feedback from people after wearing your garment for a week or two. Look at the details and finishing of the garments too. Pay attention to the finer details. If you notice something that is not quite right, or you see the room for improvement, raise your concerns with your apparel production company.

They should find a way to improve your garment as long as you can explain what you need. When your factory completed the sample production process and the item is approved for bulk production ask the clothing factory to grade the patterns to other sizes. As the grading is completed it might be a good idea to see the sample in a different size, just to compare and see if it is consistent with your expectations. There are standard grading rules and grading steps a manufacturer will follow. You have to have a size spec for all sizes. If you want custom sizing, it is generally a good idea to check what the grading steps are and if you feel they are in line with your vision for the fit of the garments across all sizes.

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This especially relates to the oversized items, tight-fitting items or items with specific design or purpose. In these cases, standard grading rules probably will not apply so check the measurements spec to make sure it reflects the uniqueness of your design. It is worth noting, anything outside of the standard grading specifications may not be as cost effective to produce, as they will require specialised tooling and production specific to your brand.

Make sure you check everything and also check out some clothing line mistakes to avoid. When all sizes are approved and grading is done, give your clothing manufacturer the exact breakdown of the quantities per size and the total quantity and a line sheet. Based on that they will be able to give you the total order of fabric consumption for your desired quantity.

Ask them to mention all fabrics e. Requirements for trims such as elastics, interlinings, straps, clasps and more are often overlooked. Ask your manufacturer to list the trims they need for production.

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Find out what factories can supply or source on their own, and what fabric and trims you need to source and supply to them. Higher quantities will always have better margins and lower production prices. Ask for what the economic order quantity is and weight in on what order quantity will make sense to you and your desired profit margins. However, there are options for fashion brands looking for factories to produce smaller runs.

These may be a more expensive option, but for smaller brands, it avoids having high stock levels in the early stages of your business. Have a list of all suppliers for fabrics and trims and start negotiating the order pricing as soon as possible. Research the minimum orders and stock availability. You can easily find yourself in a situation when the minimum order quantity MOQ for a specific colour or article is more than you expected or can afford.

Getting a hold of this information early will allow you to adjust the production quantity or look into alternative suppliers. Fabrics and trims from stock can run out, be sure they are in stock by the time you need them. You can avoid this by planning ahead with the supplier.

Custom orders for fabric and trims may take a long time to process, weeks or even months. Make sure you are aware of that and once you know the exact timeline of production and delivery let your clothing manufacturer know. They carefully plan their production capabilities with allocated time-slots and will not sit around all day waiting for your fabric to arrive tomorrow, next week or next month. If you are ready to launch and have a slot booked but the fabric did not arrive on time, there is a high possibility your order will be set aside and you will have to wait for the next production slot.

Depending on your production quantity and goals you want to achieve, you may want to consider different factory types. There are FPP Full production factories and CMT cut make trim factories — there are differences between these two, so be sure you know. Regardless it will be very important for you to know how clothes are made , so you have a clear understanding what the factory will do with your design to produce it.

Once you finally narrowed it down be sure you know how to talk to a clothing manufacturer to get the best out of it and not fail with any negotiations, or simply have too low or too high expectations of what it can and could be. Here are some good tips on selecting a garment factory right for you. Consider both local, overseas and near-shore manufacturers. Say for instance if you are in the UK here are the things you can consider when working with UK fashion factory. All will have their own benefits and drawbacks.