Manual Unearthing

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When we were children, kuyacsa [mauka] was planted in every chacra […]. Entire chacras, with maize and beans. All the neighbors had it.

Before, because there was a lot of it, we used to collect it in sacks. We no longer harvest or eat it.


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Moreover, in Sandia Puno , cultivation appears to have been particularly high, with one farmer explaining:. I think at least a third of families should still have a few plants. We all used to have it before. About 40 years ago everyone had mauka, and there was a lot of it.

Longer ago, there was even more.

Between the Lines

These rich anecdotes hint toward the idea that mauka was indeed a significant crop for some Andean communities; however, a larger number of farmers across a wider geographical range would need to be interviewed to make a firmer overall assessment and explore the distinctions likely to occur between regions. Many vernacular names were heard during the study, some recorded previously and others for the first time Table 2. Mauka remains the only denomination for cultivated M. In northern Peru, where mauka goes by many names, variations such as quishpi yuca , pishpi yuca , coshpi yuca , and kashpa yuca chime with one another.

When asked why they cultivate mauka, the most common explanation was that it had been inherited from their parents, grandparents, or even from their ancestors. Some stated that cultivation was a conscious practice, necessary to prevent its disappearance, with one couple from Ancash Fig.

It is like a memory or souvenir from them. The Inca used it as food, but now very few people cultivate it. Most considered it a basic foodstuff with no historical or cultural significance, with some describing it as a weed. The only region where farmers identified wild mauka was Corongo Ancash. Here one household referred to M.

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Present in abundance along the border of their chacra , they often harvest the foliage to use as pig feed. A second farmer explained that wild mauka was present in the area and associated with a particular larva. Wild specimens—including M.

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September and August were most frequently mentioned for planting mauka, coinciding with the beginning of the wet season, while the drier months of July and August were those most commonly recommended for harvesting. However, farmers generally reported that mauka can be planted or harvested at any time of the year, providing it has matured. Other crops with more fixed cycles—such as maize, with which it was commonly found intercropped—often determine this.

One informant in Ancash suggested that maize may shelter mauka from frost damage, to which its foliage is susceptible. Robinson , and squash Cucurbita pepo L. However, several others warned that close intercropping compromised root production. The plant is propagated clonally, by the division of the subterranean stems that thicken significantly as the plant reaches maturity Fig. While aerial stems can also be used, they have a much lower survival rate. Farmers explained that production could be raised significantly in just one growth season, with one reporting that a single mauka plant could easily be split into 25 plantlets.

One farmer in Puno said that, although he generally used stem cuttings, mauka propagation via seed was known to produce higher yields. Nevertheless, rather than planting mauka year after year, farmers often rely on its ability to self-proliferate, by dropping its botanical seed or self-planting its crawling stems.

You can cultivate it, but it is also born from the botanical seed.

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Even if you abandon it, it continues to grow. While mauka appears capable of fending for itself, farmers described interventions necessary for improving quality and yield. For example, several emphasized the importance of aporque , the process of hilling up soil around the base of the plant at several months into its growth cycle, to promote the development of the subterranean stem and train it to grow upright.

Most farmers did not carry out weeding or irrigation specific to mauka but explained that it would be indirectly tended to in the upkeep of the chacra or homegarden. In fact, we suppose that her plant was older than this, as it had a prominently suberized stem cortex—a cork-like external layer known to develop only in very mature mauka plants. Mauka is usually harvested using a pico pickaxe or a barreta pole to dig carefully around and lift out the roots.

As a subsistence crop, farmers generally said that mauka is harvested plant by plant, as opposed to all at once, as and when it is required for consumption. Several even said that portions are harvested without digging up the entire plant, so that it serves as a living larder, as described by one farmer from Corongo:. Will there not be roots? Have you not seen a mature one? Go and see if some are yellow. We dug with sticks to find the biggest and most beautiful roots, and we left the rest, the thinner ones, without damaging the plants much; because they then continued to develop, for other opportunities.

Farmers generally described mauka as high yielding. Superlatives such as grandazo huge , enorme enormous , and tremendos tremendous were used—especially in latent-memory interviews—to describe the size of its roots. However, several complained that, while this may have been true in the past, mauka is now a low-yielding crop.

Another said that all crops—not just mauka—are poor-yielding nowadays.


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During active-memory interviews, several farmers who were keen to demonstrate the size of the root expressed disappointment when unearthing a smaller than anticipated harvest. Unprocessed mauka roots can irritate the inside of the mouth, due to their content of oxalate crystals.

In that way, it is like oca. The flavor is excellent; it has a good kind of aroma.

In Sandia, for example, one farmer said that mauka roots should be consumed fresh because sun exposure dries them out, making them less palatable. Meanwhile, another from the same village said that her grandmother had taught her to always asolear the roots, to maximize their natural sweetness.

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Notably, one household reported consuming mauka both asoleado and fresh, depending on the occasion. No correlation was found between impressions of taste and geography or distinct landraces. Varied impressions were also given of its texture, including suave smooth , duro hard , pesado heavy , and harinoso starchy. We feel full and do not get hungry until lunch time.

Taste and texture were often compared to that of potato Solanum tuberosum L. Mauka was frequently described as being identical to, or even as a variety of, yuca. Its flavor was not like yuca and not like arracacha either. It was also different from sweet potato and oca which are very sweet. It did not have such an outstanding flavor, it was quite insipid, but somehow it was still tasty. Its texture was smooth. In preparing mauka, farmers described either peeling and then cooking the roots Fig. Boiled mauka is typically eaten in place of bread or potatoes for breakfast or lunch, or as an accompaniment to caldo broth Fig.

In Sihuas, one farmer demonstrated boiling mauka before hand peeling and pan frying it with herbs and tinned tuna Fig. Another explained how she once had made a sweet pancake with mashed mauka roots, while a number mentioned that it can be grated and incorporated into mazamorra a traditional dessert. Several farmers said that mauka was sometimes cooked in a pachamanca or huatia —an earthen oven where food is buried and baked with hot stones.

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My father used to leave it to mature for two years But what amazing kuyacsa! While it has been written that mauka leaves are traditionally eaten as salad, none of the farmers interviewed for this study were familiar with that practice. Instead, the family recommended the following:.