Guide Obie and the Open Door and Monkey in a Cage

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We were encouraged to examine and admire their elaborate costumes and hairdress. They wore stunning jeweled buckles on the little belt that ties the obi, and had various silver charms dangling from the obi itself, as well as in their hair. One seemed a mere child, and Bill, full of enthusiasm and saki, christened her "little almond eyes" - and everybody was very friendly and very happy. They danced and sang for us, sat with us, lighting our cigarettes and pouring our drinks, until after two. One curious thing about the geisha is the make-up - ghastly white rice powder all over the face and upper lip, with the lower lip thick with red lipstick.

To our great surprise, the sweet little things came home with us, but as it turned out, it was simply a hospitable gesture, and they all got in a car and went home again with venturing into the hotel - where of course they are not allowed. However, we managed to get to the station by nine, after being up most of the night, and caught the very comfortable train to Kyoto.

All day long we sat with our noses plastered against the rain-splashed window-pane. Part of the time the train ran along the coast, where we had the sea with its fishing boats on one side of us, and the misty mountains on the other. It was too cloudy to see Fuji, though we were at one time very near it. At four in the afternoon we reached Kyoto, and made for the Miyako Hotel.

We were mildly surprised that evening to find the dining-room on the fourth floor, but simply amazed to look out of the window and find a lovely Japanese garden, water falls and all. In the evening we took a taxi down to Shinmozen, the tourist shopping street, lined with fascinating little shops selling silk, Damascene, lacquer, porcelain, prints, cloisonne, - all the wares and crafts of Japan. Bill went in heavily for silk shirts, and blew himself to a stunning kimono of ribbed navy blue silk.


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February 8 - Kyoto. Komai, zoologist of the Imperial University, called on us at ten-thirty. To my great delight he brought his wife with him, and she spoke beautiful English, and we became great friends. She is the only Japanese woman I met who knew any English at all, and it was lots of fun to have a little feminine conversation, after all the stag parties I had been to.

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We went to the Zoo, then to the University. The Zoo is not as attractive as Tokyo, but very good, with many interesting things, such as black swans nesting, breeding hippos, a record of fifty lion cubs born, a cage with three Japanese bears and one lion, all very tame. The Director, Mr. Nagato, spoke practically no English, but was very affable. The Komais took us to their home foreign style for lunch, and we had a delicious meal.

Lion opens car door

Meat and various vegetables were artistically arranged in Korean charcoal burner which was set on the table, and we ate quantities of good "stew" with separate bowls of rice. Komai had a pretty garden, with oranges on a tree, red camellias in bloom, and tulips and other spring bulbs coming up. After lunch Mrs. We saw the Buddhist temple of Gingakuji, the Silver Pavilion, where a number of old paintings are on exhibition, a small shrine contianing an image of the Emperor whose estate it once was, and saw the original ceremonial tea room, four and a.

We saw Heian temple, with its beautiful garden, where every stone and tree has a name of its own, and where one crosses the pools on curious round stepping stones. Then we went to the Chionin Temple, which is surrounded by a wide wodden verandah, every board of which squeaks. He himself was not present, but his secretary was, also the Minister of Education, A representative of the Tourist Bureau, and Mr. We had sukiyaki, and saki, and geisha, and a very pleasant and dignified evening. February 9. Went for a walk, and did some more shopping in Shinmozen. Went into Nomura's silk store, more to see his famous old brocades and beautiful screens than to buy but picked up a pair of brocade sandals and a few furoshiki, and Bill bought two Fuji silk shirts.

After lunch we hired a car, and drove to Nara, about thirty miles through lovely country, and little villages where the road wound between tiny houses and shops that were so close together you could almost touch them on both sides.

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Nara itself needs a week or more, instead of a couple of hours. We had a clear, sunny afternoon, and the feeling of peace and quiet that pervades the old, old, forests was simply indescribable. We did not see the Todaiiji Temple, where the big Daibutsu sits, bigger even than Kamakura but less impressive becuase it is indoors and surrounded with a little too much in the way of gilt lotus plants and dangling decorations. Then we went in search of the tame deer, and found in a park leading to a shrine were there are literally thousands of stone lanterns.

What an effect there must be when the lanterns are all lighted, as they are once or twice a year! The deer were embarrassingly tame, almost knocking one down in there eagerness to eat the little rice cakes that we brought to give. They would stand up and put their front legs on your chest, push their noses into your pocket, or give your belt a firm tug with their teeth. Very pretty, and in an entrancing setting. In the evening, back at the Miyako Hotel, Dr. Kawamura came to call.

We had been hoping to see him ever since we had been in Japan, and enjoyed having a brief visit with him. February Accompanied by Dr. Kawamura and his assistant, Mr. Hazama, we caught an early morning train for Osaka, a forty-minutes ride from Kyoto. With Bill's usual luck, the first thing we saw when we came. We wanted to dash right in, but it seemed that we were expected at the Zoo, so we went there first, and submitted to the usual photographs and interviews.

Our doings are chronicled daily in the newspapers, and every opinion we express is aired, usually with some inaccuracy, over the radio. We have posed with the Tokyo elephant, the Kyoto hippopotamus, the Osaka stilt-walking chimpanzee and incidentally with a Kyoto geisha girl, but Mrs. Komai tells us that it was not a good newspaper but a sort of tabloid that published the picture taken in the geisha house.

The Osaka Zoo was, like the others, interesting. It has recently been enlarged, and an underground passage connects the new part with the old. This subway has been turned into a small, underground aquarium. The Zoo has one giraffe, and a fine sea-lion pool with eight sea lions, which the public is allowed to feed with fish thoughtfully provided and sold for a sen or two each.

This honor system for feeding the animals is used in every Zoo. The public, the animals and the administration all enjoy the benefit. There were two elephants in a bar-less pit, a good monkey island, a row of big cat cages covered with a wistaria trellis, seven sacred cranes, a trained chimp and three others, a ouakari, an albino king snake - specimens of species. And the usual charge, 15 sen for adults, 10 sen for children. Here was a monkey island with windmill and rowboats for the Japanese monkeys.

A pair of wart hogs proudly displayed their three babies. The chimpanzee had a glass-fronted house, with fireplace, benches, and other domestic furniture. Thirteen sealions - one big bull - disported in an enormous pool. The great sight was the penguin pool, where there are about thirty penguins jackass in all stages from egg to adult.

Thirty have been born here. We photographed the flock, and then a three-weeks' old baby was brought out to have his picture taken. I petted him, and he was as soft as silk.

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Below the pool is a glass front, so that the birds can be seen through the water, swimming and diving for fish. There were 25 species of monkey, including douroucoulis and wooly and gibbon, a trained chimp, a circus wagon cage for performing lions, a Chosen leopard. The greatest thrill of all was a pool about a hundred feet in diameter, which contained a live whale, an foot Globiocephalus scammoni, which feeds on dead squid and spends all day swimming counter clockwise, and coming up to blow three times in each circuit of the pool.

Koshien also has an aquarium, where the tanks are nicely arranged, some of them projecting, rather than having them all in a straight line, and sparklingly clean, with coral set in cement for backgrounds. One of the nicest exhibits was a flock of Hypodytes rubripinnis, the Sargassum fish. There were numerous species of lovebirds and parrakeets, including a new chocolate-brown budgerigar, which he had just succeeded in breeding.

He had finshes and pheasants, including the Mikado pheasant, and one of his tinamous had just laid an egg. We were told that the first cobalt budgerigar sold in Japan for 6, yen, and the first white for 10, yen Okada is the largest saki brewer in Japan, and we saw the brewery, where saki was in all stages, from freshly-boiled rice to kegs of the finished drink. It is stored, incidentally, in cryptomeria barrels, the wood of which gives it that distinctive flavor.

Okada had a Japanese house and a foreign house, with a little rock garden between the two. We were invited in to the foreign house, where we had tea with chestnut paste cakes, and then coffee. His ten-year old son was introduced to us as an entomo ogist, and Bill promised to exchange beetles with him. We saw some of the lad's collection, well mounted and well labelled.

Finally we got back to Osaka, and had a brief visit with the circus.

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The frame work was of bamboo poles tied together, and covered with a high-pitched brown canvas. The stage was in the middle of the tent; one half was for the audience, the other for the performers' dressing rooms. The stage had various curtains and back drops, like a vaudeville stage, and indeed the performance, what we saw of it, was like a slow vaudeville show. We saw a double trap act, a dance, and a man who stood on his head on a trapeze 35 feet in the air. We met Mr. Ariti, who would be taken for a circus manager anywhere, clad in a heavy black brocaded silk kimono, with a gold watch chain and a couple of hunks of jade across his bosom.

We were served coffee, and the inescapable photographer turned up to make a picture of us.


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The audience was more interesting than the show. They sat on mats, shoeless, on a high wooden platform that sloped up toward the back of the tent, and gasped and applauded at the proper spots. We got back to the hotel about seven, and had quite a dinner party, having invited the Komais, Nagato, Kawamura, and Mrs. Osorio to have dinner with us.