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Table of contents
- The Atlantic Correspondence of Francis and Mathilde Lieber, 1839-1845
- Humor - Travelers' Tales
- Narrow Dog To Carcassonne
- Recent Books
When our rally leader, Jane, stood and clinked her glass at dinner to make some announcements, to our collective surprise the entire Yacht Club's guest and staff stood up and silenced their actions. Turns out every yacht club nightly ceases all activity out of respect for retiring the US flag.
All stand, some cross their hearts, a salute gun is fired, and in silence the flag is brought down, properly folded, and stowed. A wonderful, respectful ceremony. We were surprised a few nights later when we were transiting through the club to the dock: even though the yacht club was closed, the same ritual took place.
Indeed, we were the only ones there on the lawn, standing still while the gun was fired and flags lowered, with Sophia assisting with the flag fold. In each place we met up with local friends and enjoyed meeting the locals. In Phinney's Harbor we hosted the local sailing club kids aboard Kailani for a tour, with Sophia fielding questions and providing her perspective of highlights from our travels around the globe.
Porstmouth NH was our introduction to lobster traps everywhere while sailing — yikes! We had a great time touring the town and visiting historic Strawbery Banke, a living outdoor museum with role players in period homes from up through Our coastal sailing highlights so far have included transiting the Cape Cod Canal with its 4 kt current, seeing a right whale breach off our port bow, and slipping nicely along at 5kts harnessing the off-shore breeze with jib-only sailing. She made sure to bring a country music playlist along for the sail and made an indelible impression on the ladies! There are so many lobster pots it makes navigating quite stressful, with Kailani often barely fitting between the span of pots.
Anchoring is a challenge in some of these ports that are either all mooring buoys or lobster pots. But we have managed to not get too snagged, and have been rewarded with quiet secluded island spots where the dramatic 10 foot tides constantly reveal new sights. We have enjoyed kayaking and just chilling out quite literally cold! As we post this we are readying the boat for a 36 hour passage to Halifax, Nova Scotia. We have been waiting out a passing low which is soaking us with rain and buffeting us about the anchorage with 25 kt gusts.
It should move on around midnight and we plan to leave on its heels at And why has Kailani suddenly become the poster girl for inertia? First of all, this is the best anchorage we have been in since we hung out for weeks on end in the Lau group of islands in Fiji back in Ask any cruising sailor what they value most about an anchorage and first on the list is the holding. We are currently anchored in about 15 feet of clear water over a thick sand bed. Our anchor is buried so deep that even after a 30 plus knot clocking wind rolled through and stretched out our ft of chian bar tight we did not budge.
A second reason contributing to our current lack of enthusiasm for taking anything less than an ideal weather window north to the US mainland is Bermuda itself. While expensive, the people are delightful, the islands are beautiful, there is great public transportation available and the place is steeped in history dating back to the early 17th century. Since she cannot be bought off with an extra ration of grog or even chocolate and since the weather forecast is not quite perfect, we will give it another day.
The Atlantic Correspondence of Francis and Mathilde Lieber, 1839-1845
Stay tuned. Why they still dress like that is to be determined. We have been anchored for only 2 nights and have determined there is a lot more to this place than the Bermuda shorts! So far we are delighted by our walking about time in St George's. Our first day ashore was just the usual wander to find food and beverage, get a bit acquainted with where money, food, internet, trash, etc are, then get back to the boat and sleep.
Day two, we went in early for breakfast, then our Elf of on the Shelf took a taxi to catch a flight home some people have jobs and such Sophia lit up when we filled out that experience by visiting the tourism office and she pulled every map and brochure to determine our touring schedule. There are 15 forts here, countless museums, historical sites, and of course some beautiful towns and beaches to explore. He even had to chase her into a nearby bar when she tried to escape we know, sounds even more like Jen now It was all good fun and a great start to some down time here in Bermuda.
The anchorage itself is chocker-block full up with cruisers, as this is the window of time when all are headed up from the Caribbean and either to the east coast of North America or to Europe to escape hurricane season. So there are about 40 boats all in a tiny anchorage, most European flagged. For our part we have decided to take this time here as our vacation time, likely not leaving for at least 2 weeks while The weather is decidedly cooler with temps in the 60sF while the Nly winds run, so we are all sleeping under covers.
Jen's hand heals further. But she has now had 3 weeks in the splint, and it appears she might indeed achieve full primate status again in a couple weeks. Meanwhile, on doctor's orders aka her own she is not to do dishes aboard for one solid week. Departing Antigua and heading north meant we would be leaving the trade winds and sailing in to the variables. Watching storms on the east coast of the US travel eastward and trends up further north are what would dictate our path to Bermuda. When we left Antigua, the nm sail looked like it would be about 6 days of sailing, mostly as a broad reach, with some light winds at the end requiring some motoring.
Our friend Bill had joined us in Grenada to make the passages all the way to the East Coast, and by the time we finally left Antigua he was well-schooled in the reality of passage-making: the prep, the waiting for the right weather, the fixing of critical systems before — aka the delays!! We were all getting weary of the heat of the Caribbean as the daytime temps had risen during our 5 weeks there by over 10F to lower the lower 90Fs, so we were excited to finally be green lighted to go north.
It was a fortuitous thing that we had Bill as fourth crew yes, despite what some countries and insurance companies think, Sophia is actually our third crew! Unfortunately, 2 days before he arrived, Jen hyper-extended her thumb when Harley was passing a very heavy stainless steel companionway gate down to her and accidentally dropped it — she caught it but the thumb went straight back.
Now, Jen is the ship's doctor, so she had to direct Harley and Sophia through the maneuvers of helping getting the hand iced, wrapped, and splinted to isolate the thumb from movement. It was severe enough that we contemplated going to get it checked out by real docs in Grenada, but heard that their MRI was broken. Then in Antigua, same thing.
So off we set sail with Jen effectively not able to help with the sailing. Anyway, having Bill aboard was a life-saver, not only because it allowed us to sail north otherwise we would have likely waited a couple more weeks until Jen's hand healed, further risking bad weather on our northward run After 48 hours out, the forecast took a turn for the worse when out of nowhere a Tropical Depression appeared.
Leave it to Kailani to leave port and find ourselves in the path of the first named storm of the season! TD Andrea was headed directly for Bermuda, and by the next wx update she was upgraded to a Tropical Storm headed straight for us.
We strategized about how to sail it we would be in the worst quadrant if hit , and in the end, decided to stick to the rhumbline to Bermuda as much as possible. So now we had to bash through confused 2m seas, and were confronted by a giant H pressure to the north giving us headwinds of knots.
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So we decided to heave to, allowing us to wait out the northerly winds until they went a little more NE for the rest of our nm to Bermuda. The next check of the weather after 12 hours of waiting it out showed a forecast that the wind was actually going to die off much sooner than previously forecast. So we started sailing after 16 hours hove to, knowing we had about hours of wind to bash north the last nm. And a bash it was. Falmouth Harbour is a bit of a dogleg around some reefs, but a well-lit channel, so all was good once we set the hook.
Looking around the next morning we were surprised by the reefs that surrounded us. Once Harley returned from the onshore customs and immigration, all crew went ashore.
Humor - Travelers' Tales
Our principal reason for this stop in Antigua is to have made some Northward progress while waiting for good weather for the remaining nm run up to Bermuda. Harley has been watching the passage weather patterns every day since returning to Grenada in late March, and we would have only a few days in Antigua before wind fills in favorably for our remaining run North.
Sophia immediately lit up with excitement about all the museums and original buildings, sail lofts, careening bollards, and officer's quarters. She is reading the Aubrey Maturin series for the first time, and is quite enamored with the period the Royal British Navy's battles throughout the Atlantic. At the Nelson's Dockyard museum, she literally read every placard, especially enjoying the replica of seaman's quarters, hammocks, as well as original pieces of armory, clothing, and finery.
Narrow Dog To Carcassonne
The description of Nelson's battles and of course the Battle of Trafalgar where he met his death yet the RN turned the final tide on the war, were quite well done exhibits. We compared the death mask of Nelson to that of Napoleon's we saw in St Helena — Sophia commented on "how small there heads were for such mighty men Since then definitely things have been tailored for more tourism the worldwide trend in our observations since last time around , but at least there have not yet been any Segways or zip lines installed!
We walked passed their stalls each day, chatting them up each time, and were so impressed with an older woman named Louise. She harvests seedpods from the Tamarind trees at a certain time of year, cleans and dries them, then artistically sews them together into all manner of craft: belts, bracelets, coasters, placards.
We had heard about this indigenous artwork at various tourist shops and after talking with Louise, are fairly certain she is the last person on the island doing such work. Having seen a lot of arts and crafts around the world, we can honestly say this is some of the most creative and labor intensive work, so we were happy to contribute to her purse and purchased some beautiful pieces.
Harley has proclaimed we have a great window for a northward passage to Bermuda, so after a brief 3 nights in Antigua we have readied Kailani for a late afternoon departure. Finally, Kailani is headed out of the Caribbean for some cooler climes and out of the hurricanes paths! Before the return south, however, we managed 3 days of fun in the Tobago Cays.
Recent Books
Our three days there were spent anchored between two islands surrounded by reefs. Sophia snorkeled at least twice a day, seeing upwards of 10 turtles and even more rays every time out. One day we kayaked over to a nearby island that has a cordoned area where the turtles feed on the sea grass and Sophia snorted among them for almost two hours.
A hike up the island afforded beautiful views of the multiple surrounding reefs, while the hike itself was full of wildlife: frigates hovering overhead, birds scrabbling in the bushes for nesting material, and the occasional iguana on the hunt for some food. Those iguanas were pretty aggressive too! At one point one came scurrying out of the bushes after a banana that a tourist had left on their beach gear. Once he was upon it, in a very Jurassic Park moment, the bushes started to wiggle and suddenly there were iguanas of all sizes and colors headed for that one banana.
The struggle that ensued reminded us of our time in Komodo NP watching the Komodo dragons similarly fight over a dead goat albeit on a somewhat reduced scale. It has been a long time since we have spent days in an anchorage absolutely chocked full of charterers and tourist boats. Many revelers were having a grand time downing rum, listening to loud music, jumping off the tops of their catamarans, turning their skin pink, an snorkeling about. We were missing our cruising community feel when alongside came a dinghy, and who should appear but our friends Marcus and Uschi from SV Flydi, a German couple we met early last year in South Africa and with whom we shared many a message as we both struggled to cross the Atlantic while sorting through our respective boat part failures.
We spent our last night in Tobago Cays having cocktails aboard Flydi and catching up on the past year. It finally felt like we were cruising again! The next day we checked out of St Vincent and sailed 45 nm down to St Davids Bay to prep to haul Kailani the next morning. Exactly one year and 2 days after hauling out upon arrival from S Africa, here we were again in the same marina hauling Kailani.
Jen and Sophia went off provisioning while Harley and Bill Sullivan, who has joined as crew for the upcoming passage, monitored the repair. As the sun set in the bay, we watched a catamaran run aground on the reef - sadly when we left the next morning it appeared they had abandoned her because she was stern to the rocks on the lee shore. More inspiration to get out of this windward side bay on Grenada. We pulled onto the customs dock where they were kind enough to let us linger while we took the dinghy to the chandlery for some impellers.
Once checked out, we crossed over to the fuel dock, and after much sweat and heat exhaustion, finally set sail for a northerly passage up the leeward side of the island. Unfortunately the generator problem was more complicated than originally thought, so we decided to come into Tyrell Bay, arriving by pm to anchor down. It was a long and tough sail to windward, so after a crew meal we all collapsed into our bunks.