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Tambourín eBook: Jean-Philippe Rameau, Ronald Herder: leondumoulin.nl: Kindle Store.
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Medieval to Modern, Vol. 1 (LHS)

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Brandishing long skinny sticks, they lit out from the booth and disappeared. Later, they were back at the booth, surrounded by little kids delightedly learning how to make what looked like flour tortillas. Booksellers sold books in Occitan and Catalan, and a lobbying organization to have each taught in the schools shared space with private language institutes. Local agriculture got surprisingly little space, although there was a lot of expensive olive oil for sale, a place where you could get local oysters and a glass of Picpoul de Pinet, the perfect oyster wine , and a display of local potatoes.

And there was a wine booth, where wine was being served, but none was on display, nor was there a price list. For ten euros, you could sign up for the evening's banquet, which would be large: This, incidentally, shows only one of the two rows of tables. The menu was "salade catalane," some sort of stew, and a peach dessert.

So what we had here was a cultural celebration of a culture I know little about, and I felt frustrated. Maybe, I thought, the music would be a way in. At the start of the afternoon, a band called les Diables de la Garrigue was playing in and around this hot-rod, with percussionists and oboists playing what might be traditional melodies over beats being created by a guy at a console that was literally in the belly of the beast. At the other end of the square, a group of "tenores" held forth with lovely acappella stuff, mostly, from what I could tell, in Occitan, although there was one piece where they showed off and who wouldn't, if you could actually execute it?

All too many of the groups which followed them, however, stunk of subsidized folklore.

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Most followed the fast-is-more-exciting formula, and who's to day, given the venue, that they were wrong? It was very hot -- around 90 F -- so I headed back to the apartment, aware that I could be at any action in seconds. Around 8, there was a very loud commotion in my street itself, and I emerged to find this bunch of guys and one very intense gal kicking out the jams in front of the bakery: Oboes and drums. If you look closely at the oboes, you'll see they don't really resemble the orchestral ones at all, in configuration of the holes, the bore, or the reed, which is really wide.

Having seen them in use before, I'm very curious about them, but a desultory web search brought up nothing except offers to teach me Languedocian folk-dancing, which I'm afraid is a very lost cause. I'd like to learn more about this stuff, but I don't know where to start. Fortunately, there'll be more of it, and this will happen again next year.

Maybe this broke-ness will lift and I'll be able to get out to the Spanish border for a couple of days. I have to keep reminding myself I've been here barely seven months, so it's just natural that I haven't met people who can explain this stuff and point me to more of it. The music went on til just after 1am.


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Much of it sounded like the Pogues with oboes, except with the DJ took over and it sounded like house with oboes. There is a long-standing piece of folklore among orchestral musicians that double-reed players are crazy because the internal pressure in their heads, combined with the angle at which they're obliged to hold their instruments -- they literally blow their minds. Maybe I should keep this in mind while dealing with the locals, eh? Ed Ward June 14, at PM. Paul O'sullivan June 14, at PM.

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