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The peak period was in late May in the s and s, and is now early May. Credit: Meera Subramanian. Steve dismisses climate change as a factor in what he's experiencing after more than 40 years of shrimping the same waters—he doesn't see the evidence, he says. He blames the decline on pollution from aquaculture, agriculture and a Colorado River diversion, as well as on the construction of an erosion-control barrier wall just beyond the marsh dunes that keeps young shrimp from moving with the tides. He found that the shrimp would move from the bay into deeper waters "like clockwork"—but on a clock that had moved forward by at least a couple of weeks.

In the s and s, the peak period of the shrimp moving into the Gulf was late May; now it's shifted to early May. Agency officials are mulling over changing harvest dates, but they know there are still likely to be unseasonably cool springs in the future, which would delay the shrimp as much as warming speeds them up. So far, keeping the status quo of a May 15 opening day for the bay shrimping season is their compromise. Same weather, same bay, same business, but Scooter Machecek diverges from his cousin on the matter of climate change. And they develop quick, not like they used to.

Ahhh, this is going to be a [Category 1 storm] and it comes in a 4! They think that's all it's going to be, and it just keeps a-ginning," whipping up in strength, "because the water is so warm. The two men do agree on one thing: that the legacy of their livelihood might be coming to an end with them.

Still, neither of them is quite ready to pack it up. There are essentially two fleets that pursue shrimp in these parts. The bay shrimpers, regulated by the state, stay close to shore, while the federally regulated Gulf shrimpers head to deeper waters. Both fleets are fading in size.


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State and federal license moratoriums and license buyback programs started in the s and s, prompted by a concern about overharvesting and a hope to maintain a viable livelihood for the boats that remained. That means that more threads of the already-fraying shellfishing industry have been clipped out of place. For the close-to-shore bay shrimpers, the state has bought back two-thirds of the licenses since the mids. Farther offshore, the number of boats has declined by a quarter just in the last decade.

He has seven boats now, all of which were out on day voyages in the Gulf. Each was expected to return the following week with 20, pounds of flash-frozen shrimp in their hulls. In the early s, Craig tells me, he had twice as many boats, back when regulations were more lax and fuel was a lot cheaper. But while fuel prices have generally gone up until the recent dip , prices for their catch at the dock have remained stagnant. Burlap sacks of freshly harvested oysters arrived from the boats. Oyster shells are often returned to bay waters to help build reefs to support the struggling oyster population.

Even as seafood consumers become greater connoisseurs of what appears on their plates, they'll only pay so much for it, and by and large they don't really care where it comes from. Those cheap imports are coming from shrimp farms in India, Indonesia, Ecuador, Vietnam and elsewhere , where labor and environmental laws are a shadowy sliver of U.


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It's nearly impossible for American producers to compete. The industry relies heavily on younger H-2B visa workers from Mexico, but recent restrictions on this temporary non-agricultural laborer visa category, which includes everyone from waitresses to deckhands, have added a new challenge for an already struggling industry.

Another thread. Another snip. A couple hours up the coast from Palacios is San Leon, an oystering hotspot.

Rare bluefin tuna caught off the Texas Gulf Coast

Too much "agua dulce," say the oyster boat captains who have brought their haul into Misho's Oyster Co. They do a good job. They're high quality. Another climate risk for Texas Gulf towns is the sea itself, which these days sometimes rises high enough to reach coastal properties with a kiss if they're lucky or a clobber if they're not. Sea levels along the Texas coastline have gone up 5 to 17 inches, higher than the global average, in part because of subsidence caused by extraction of groundwater and fossil fuels. Steve Pirhoda's shrimp boat is lashed to pilings in the backyard of his waterfront home as he begins a gut renovation of the wheelhouse.

Rising seas translate to more severe storm surges when hurricanes hit.

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One study found that global warming was responsible for making the rains from 's Hurricane Harvey about 15 percent more intense. Today, to reach the front door of some seaside homes, you first have to climb two flights of stairs. The state of Texas is considering massive barrier-building projects to protect residents from the increasing threat of storm surges. Working with the U. Army Corps of Engineers, the state is conducting the Coastal Texas Study , a sweeping plan to create a more defensive shoreline that would include infrastructure such as dikes, levees and seawalls.

How effective these forms of hard infrastructure would be is highly debatable —especially if inland flooding rushing down toward the Gulf is as much a threat as the storm surge coming up from it. One obvious risk of these physical barriers is the one Steve Pirhoda points out, indicating the seawall that was built just beyond where the "Sea Tiger" is docked: the interruption of the necessary movement of species to and from the nurseries where their aquatic lives begin. But there's another type of infrastructure at risk along the coast.

Palacios was spared the wrath of Hurricane Harvey, but a bit farther down the coast, Port Lavaca was hammered. They scrambled to send the shrimp south to a freezer that was functioning, but even after the storm was over, the plant never reopened. Palacios, Steve Pirhoda's home port, was mostly spared the wrath of Hurricane Harvey, but a bit farther down the coast, Port Lavaca, Rockport and Port Aransas were hammered.

Welders, or the guys who do winch work, "they're out of business if they don't have enough boats to survive.

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Just as the effects of climate change serve as a threat multiplier, there are economic multipliers, too. Credit: Meera Subrmanian. The result is a shrinking and consolidation of the Gulf shrimping fleet. All these places, "they've all diminished," Craig says, going as far back as the effects of Hurricane Katrina in Some weren't doing well so they took the insurance money and ran.

With each storm or corporate catastrophe, another snippet is clipped from the economic fabric of a place, and quietly it unravels. Huynh left his home on the Mekong Delta on a ferry boat loaded with refugees, made it to Malaysia, and from there he managed to get to the United States. It was , the peak of the first wave of Vietnamese refugees, , looking for a new home after the war. He was 19 and eager to work, but without English skills, so he followed an uncle to the Gulf Coast and began working on boats, like many of his compatriots. Shrimping is a tough job, and it's getting harder as the catch declines.

Many Vietnamese settled along the Gulf shores, from Alabama to Texas, and learned to work on boats. By the s, some 60 percent of the Gulf fleet was Vietnamese. Huynh shifted to San Leon in , when it was a virtually all-white town. Now San Leon is a melting pot: Latinos unload the oyster boats, a Nepali runs the local convenience store, and the red and yellow stripes of the Vietnamese flag fly from front yards around town. Each new group of immigrants comes, ready and hoping. Scooter Machacek and Steve Pirhoda's Czechoslovakian ancestors five generations back were no different. When we buy the boat, we have no money, but family help each other.

The Vietnamese community is tight-knit, pooling its resources and helping each other get established or get out of crises. After Katrina hit New Orleans, the Vietnamese communities recovered quickly because of these shared resources. Put it all together, then one standing up. Then later on, the second one standing up," he says, a large pendant made of the tooth of a boar around his neck, the Buddha's figure carved within.

But few of the owners of all those Vietnamese flags around town remain working on the water. Less, less, less, all the time. Over the last few years, he's seen the decline, sure there is something wrong with the water. But he's earned a good enough living to raise his house after Hurricane Ike swamped it, and to send all six of his children to school.

Not one is considering following in their father's footsteps. They work as counselors and nurses, or go to school for law or medicine. Steve Pirhoda's son is heading into refrigeration. Scooter Machacek's daughters are a nurse and a physical therapist. This ain't money. Not anymore. It is possible that the shellfish will adapt to a changing climate, but the Americans that make their living off them will disappear anyway.

All that unraveling, the dead yawning oysters, the shuttered processing plants, the sudden strength of storms, might make that coastal fringe fracture in a way it can't recover from. When I ask Craig Wallis what the industry might look like in 10 years, he says, "There's going to be a commodity out there in the Gulf that you're not going to be able to afford to get.

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But if you step back from the emptying docks, and pause, isn't this the American Dream in action? Anglo, Asian, Latino—everyone hopes for a better life, an easier life, a wealthier life, for their children. Take school seriously, stay away from drugs, cultivate a work ethic, and, in spite of staggering economic stratification in our society, this dream is still possible.

And the disappearance of shellfishing off our southern shores, maybe that's the collateral damage of the fact that Scooter's two daughters and Huynh's six kids can make a decent living that doesn't involve winches and weather. And when they're hungry they'll be able to afford nice dinners out with plates full of seafood, from somewhere. Skip to main content. Home This story was co-published with The Weather Channel , part of Exodus , a series on climate migration.

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