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Micho is a superb rider and knows these roads well. Toward evening, a golden sunset graces the Andes, turning mountain passes into slotted windows, luring us deeper. It would take weeks to explore all of the caves and crevasses of this natural park, but a morning stroll allows us to take a glimpse at its strange geological formations, tall spires carved by the hands of time. Although some of it is paved, the unimproved roads are fascinating. We stop occasionally to visit with the local farmers.

They are happy to share some of their fresh, tiny green onions with the Gringo who wears the funny pants. In this case, one horse versus One needs only to snap a picture—anywhere— to capture an image worthy of framing. As a craftsman, I find their precision work with such crude tools almost unfathomable. It is easy to admire their skill as they build these boats in a matter of a few days. It takes some getting used to, but dining in Barichara typified many of the splendid presentations we enjoyed throughout the country.

We roll down rutted trails, past mud and cinder block huts, occasionally stopping to visit with the locals. Motos are prevalent, but we may as well be riding starships for the attention our big adventure bikes bring. Citizens of all ages gather at every opportunity to talk, laugh, and ask us about our machines.

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Odd as we seem to them, we are ambassadors from another world and are careful to remain respectful. Silt has filled the river and forced larger boats to stop coming, leaving this former center of commerce to fend for itself. Churches and other colonial buildings are still in use, well maintained, and welcoming the traveler. Tourism has replaced tobacco, precious metals, contraband, and slaves as a means to existence.

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The relaxed setting affords a perfect respite from the rigorous travel required to get here. We take a motopropelled rickshaw to dinner but decide to walk to our hotel afterwards, enjoying the dim, yellow lighting and eerie feeling of walking along the river after dark. Chugging Down the Magdalena River We are up before dawn to catch the ferry down river. The boat ride will put us well on our way to Cartagena, which is still several hours northwest. As day breaks, we arrive at an old steel tub brimming with locals. One offers fresh fish from a stained Styrofoam ice chest, but we decline.

Leaving the ferry, we pass workers honing planks for the long boats we saw on the river. Each board is hand-laid and sculpted to fit its neighbors with watertight precision. As a hobby woodworker, I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into each vessel, but I am eager to see Cartagena so we avoid the temptation to linger in an effort to get there before dark.

At night, the lights of Cartagena splash like phosphorus across the ink black Caribbean shallows.

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Founded in , this port city once harbored galleons loaded with gold and silver bound for Spain. In the dark times of the early 17th century, Cartagena became a seat of the Inquisitions. Implements of persuasion are still on display at the gruesome Palace of the Inquisition. A turn of the head is rewarded with a view inland across claytiled roofs adorning Spanish architecture.

Cartagena is truly a feast for the senses. It is a place that once struck fear in the hearts of Gringos English-speaking foreigners. A few years ago I might have been shot for merely showing my face here. My host assures me things have changed, and the smiles of the youngsters seem sufficient evidence. Statistics demonstrating the recent 80 percent plunge in homicides are also comforting. Built in , the lift offers the poor quick passage to and from work, and like the metro train serving the lower elevations, it was built to ease travel and tensions between the haves and havenots in this city of three and a half million.

We learn that one Porsche driver also rides a GS. The brotherhood of the bike paves the way to forgiveness for our taking advantage of them as they entered the rough pavement. A magnificent church building stands at the end of the square, and festivities go on well into the night. As we stroll past bright, multi-colored storefronts, the rhythmic clicking of prancing ponies catches our attention. A Saturday night ritual here, Paso Fino horses carry their smartly dressed riders from bar to bar. The riders are given shots and cervezas until they are hardly able to navigate the streets.

The asphalt ends suddenly, leaving us on a dim dirt road covered by a dense jungle canopy. Climbing again, the jungle gives way to mountain vistas. We cross the two mile 3, meters Letras Pass, then ride the last 15 miles 23 kilometers at night. After crossing the Magdalena River Valley, we ascend a narrow dirt road leading us back into the jungle. Mud slides are frequent here, and crude road repairs are underway.

Giant steel plates cover washed-out areas, and I feather the clutch to maintain traction on the slippery surface as we squeak by equipment and trucks hauling out debris. While Micho buys us soft drinks at a work site in the middle of the jungle, I discover an old foot bridge high above the river.

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The entire structure is wrapped in vines like a high trellis. Boards are rotten and broken, dampening any thought of trying to cross. We continue our climb, temperatures dropping with I ordered several glasses of this fabulous fruit concoction until Micho finally tore me away. Colorful Cartagena, The City of Love. Micho stops at an overlook and points across the valley to the lush Colombian skyline.

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Remember what you have seen here. Beef tenderloin and a good Cabernet Sauvignon is a fitting finale to the experience. My belly is full, but my appetite for adventure has been whetted by the events of this lunar phase. Colombia has so much more to offer.


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Back at the hotel I sleep well, but sometime before daylight I wake up and remember a dream. Under the last sliver of a waning blue moon, I was flying like an eagle over the Andes. Wafting up from the villages below was the unmistakable aroma of coffee. RR Printable maps, along with the digital version of each issue are included free during all paid subscription periods.


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To access these benefits, visit us at www. A hand cut nail slows our pace and reminds us that this is no ordinary place to ride a motorcycle. Colombia is like a trip back in time. Even in its beauty, everything has a purpose here. The grass is food for the cattle. These boats bring fish and eventually, the cattle will become food for those who built the boats. In General Colombia is a year-round destination. Near the Equator, temperatures vary more by altitude and rainfall rather than being influenced by time of year. A rider should prepare for warm, humid conditions along the Amazon where temps can exceed degrees to mids at altitude.

The driest months are December to March, July, and August. The coastal climate is mostly spring like. Our travels covered much of the northwestern regions. Roads are always twisty, and truck traffic is common near the larger cities. Ten days in the saddle took us over approximately 1, miles 3, kilometers.

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Travel in general is much safer now; however, engaging a quality tour company does a lot to ensure an uneventful trip. Lodging is easy to find. Roads and rivers take the bulk of freight and passengers; hence, one should have reasonably good rider skills to negotiate the busier byways safely. Superior materials. There is a difference.

Global nomads. Live in a Keron GT. But we worry about our Keron.