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Table of contents
Traditional babka recipes called for scalded or powdered milk or both , which gave it a distinctive flavor and a mild sweetness. Never a bad bite. The modern babka generally comes in two flavors: chocolate and cinnamon. Some bakeries have even veered into treif, stuffing babka with ham and cheese or sausage and eggs. In a episode, the popular sitcom Seinfeld played up the purported rivalry between chocolate lovers and cinnamon devotees.
The characters Jerry and Elaine stop at a Manhattan bakery to pick up a babka. This delicate, feathery dough is easy to work with and even better to eat. You can add finely chopped dark chocolate to the filling, or use any top-quality preserves to make this recipe your own. Makes 3 babkas. Make the dough: Pour all but 1 tablespoon of the milk into a saucepan set over medium heat and bring just to a boil, watching it carefully to ensure that it does not spill over the sides.
Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Mix gently to combine and let stand for 7 to 8 minutes; it will be foamy. Add the remaining sugar, the dry milk and salt and mix well. Add 2 of the eggs, the egg yolks and vanilla extract and mix well. Switch to a dough hook and add the remaining flour, 1 cup at a time, while mixing gently. Knead for 5 minutes.
Rugelach - Wikipedia
Then add the butter and continue to knead for another 3 minutes. It will be a sticky, wet dough at first, but it will become a smooth elastic ball that still sticks to the sides of the bowl a bit. Spray 3 loaf pans with nonstick vegetable oil spray and line each with 2 pieces of parchment paper, one placed lengthwise and one crosswise, with a 3-inch overhang of parchment on each side to allow for easy removal.
Place the dough, seam side down, into the pan. Lightly flour a work surface. Divide the dough into 3 pieces about grams each. Working with one piece at a time, roll each into an 8- by inch rectangle. Brush lightly with the beaten egg white. Sprinkle with one-third of the sugar. Starting from the long side, roll up the dough tightly. Pinch the seam at the end, pressing gently. Lift and bend the roll in half; then twist from one end to the other and place in the prepared pan. Repeat with the remaining rectangles of dough and the filling. Make an egg wash by beating the remaining 2 eggs with the remaining 1 tablespoon milk.
There is no evidence that any commercial test kitchens produced the rolled, filled cookie we know using that cream cheese dough.
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Perhaps it was an enterprising greenhorn who added the newfangled cream cheese into the dough. It was an indisputably American invention. Greenberg and Althea O. The cookie recipe invaded Jewish cookbookland. In , food editor Regina Frishwasser included in her Jewish American Cookbook the version of rugelach most often seen today. Molly Goldberg offered basically same recipe in her book. Not everyone embraced the cookie. In , when Borscht Belt hotelier Jenny Grossinger published her cookbook, rugelach had arrived. Among Jews, rugelach developed a connection to Shavuot, when dairy foods are traditionally eaten.
That past was mostly imagined.
Inside The Jewish Bakery Pastries
These cookies, in their popular cream cheese-based form, remain distinctly American and modern. In Israel, for instance, rugelach are sold in budget bakeries and posh patisserie alike. But according to Israeli food expert Janna Gur , the Israeli version—in bakeries, or the home version—are made from laminated, yeasted dough, like a European pastry.
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The yeast-free, cream cheese version, she said, is American. Like this article? Tami Ganeles Weiser is a writer, food anthropologist, culinary educator, trained chef, corporate caterer, and recovering lawyer. Click here for access to comments. Tablet is committed to bringing you the best, smartest, most enlightening and entertaining reporting and writing on Jewish life, all free of charge.
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The Author was Upton Sinclair. My Russian shtetl-born grandmother used to make these.