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Table of contents
- Liz's Healthy Table
- Featured Posts
- February premieres
- How to Find That Book You've Spent Years Looking For
- My Life Is Murder
Don't miss: Those warm madeleines. Also try: St. Foster Rd. Don't miss: The new menu of Langbaan-specific cocktails with a full bar available from PaaDee. Also try: Langbaan's curries inspired a whole spin-off restaurant, Hat Yai N. And at Pine Street Market S. It's the hottest day of the year, the wood-fired grill is roaring, and despite the punishing heat, snagging a table at Ox still requires a minute wait. Think bone marrow-spiked clam chowder, beef tongue with horseradish, and grilled lamb with its smoking sprig of rosemary.
Luckily, there are seats at the bar, where you can gaze longingly at the cool vintage fridge while drinking luminescent pisco sours or whiskey cocktails bloodied with beet juice. Stay put for braised oxtail fried in a cube atop a circlet of slowly melting peas in preserved lemon aioli. I'm almost embarrassingly fond of Ox's desserts: The hazelnut brown butter torte with delicate chamomile ice cream and stick-to-your-teeth honeycomb candy was joined this year by an adorably color-coordinated sponge cake with Marionberry ice cream, shingles of Marionberry meringue and whipped cream hiding a cap of caramel.
Don't miss: Dessert! Corbett Ave. Did you hear about the "Twin Peaks" reboot? No, not the one on Showtime. We're talking about the themed menu at Nodoguro, chef Ryan and Elena Roadhouse's creative Japanese restaurant inside the former Genoa space. Last month, Nodoguro revived its storied "Twin Peaks" dinners, decorating the back lounge as a Red Room, scattering pages of Laura Palmer's diary on the bamboo chef's counter and reviving a menu they once served to David Lynch himself at Los Angeles' Chateau Marmont Hotel.
Ties between the TV show and food are as abstract as Lynch's work — there are nods to coffee and cherries, the former infused into a sea urchin porridge, the latter scattered over fresh tofu, both damn good, but unless you ask, other references will fly over your head.
Liz's Healthy Table
Instead, Roadhouse and his wife, Elena, use their themes -- others include McDonald's, the Japanese novelist Haruki Murakami, the animated film "My Neighbor Totoro" — to present a modern take on kaiseki , the subtle, seasonal, multi-course meals at the heart of Japanese fine dining. Notes from my most recent meal look like they could have been transcribed from Agent Cooper's tape recorder: "Poached daikon.
Cherry blossom soy sauce. Inverted miso. Marinated fig. Albacore tuna with dashi-injected tomatoes. Smoked mozzarella meant to look like traditional Japanese tofu — references the smoked pig in 'Twin Peaks. Sweet tofu, like a tofu-cheesecake cherry pie. Don't miss: Every once in a while, Nodoguro serves Portland's best sushi during its "Hardcore Omakase" nights. Keep your eyes open for tickets. Also try: Speaking of great sushi, Fukami serves an omakase chef's choice meal Sundays at Davenport No.
Featured Posts
E 20th Ave. For an old-school vibe, check out Murata S. Market St. The new sushi counter at Zilla N. Speaking of kaiseki, Shizuku by Chef Naoko S. Jefferson St. Every city of a certain size and wealth seems to have a place like Castagna, a hushed, tasting-menu-only restaurant with a highly trained chef cooking modern-leaning food for a mostly well-heeled audience.
February premieres
Portland is lucky to have this one. At the helm are longtime restaurateur Monique Siu, who has shaped Portland's dining scene since her days at Zefiro, and chef Justin Woodward, who embraces unusual ingredients and complex techniques to expertly deliver challenging dishes. If Michelin stars were awarded in Portland , Castagna would surely earn one, maybe two. More important is the flawless technique, the polished service, the thought behind sommelier Brent Braun's wine and sherry! Meals begin with a series of snacks: a sci-fi battleship of crisp beet chip grasping beef tartare in its upside-down claw.
A nori cracker crumbled like wet sand around chicken liver mousse. Nasturtium petals frozen in liquid nitrogen smoke and sputter over a sheep's cheese custard. Courses progress with speed. Bazooka gumdrops of raw, kohlrabi-wrapped albacore sit in a wild ginger oil-infused tomato water. Dry-aged duck's crinkly skin packs more umami punch than frico cheese.
On our visit, the desserts displayed a midcentury modern look, with goat's milk ice cream and blackberries accompanying a tiny almond tart glazed matcha green. This is challenging food, and the cost of admission will be more than many can afford. But it also has the potential to amaze. Don't miss: The still-astonishing meringue and ice cream "potato skin" dessert.
Also try: Next door, Castagna lets its hair down at Cafe Castagna , a high-functioning American neighborhood bistro with a great burger, margherita pizza and the essential butter lettuce salad. Across town, former Castagna sous chef Ryan Fox shows what this style of food can look like in a modern chef's counter format at Nomad. PDX N. Don't miss: Desserts, including a recent frozen chocolate and malted apricot "cream between," haven't missed a beat under new pastry chef Helen Jo. Still, for a two-time James Beard Award winner, Rucker has been relatively slow to expand.
Perhaps Le Pigeon's biggest impact on the city's larger restaurant scene is on sweets, with Jo, the restaurant's current pastry chef, moonlighting at Chalino 25 N. Don't miss: The city's best cookie, a fresh-baked, meaty mix of chocolate chips and smoked almonds encased in caramel. Also try: For a similarly subtle approach to French-inspired food, service and wine, seek out Noble Rot E. Just east of Mount Tabor, Montavilla is home to its own neighborhood-changing restaurant, the fried-chicken-focused Midwestern spot The Country Cat S.
Here are Portland's 10 best new restaurants of Who's up for a nightcap? All rights reserved About Us. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Advance Local. Community Rules apply to all content you upload or otherwise submit to this site. Ad Choices. Skip to Main Content. For a new generation of southern restaurants in America, fried chicken must come with a side of context. At Muscadine, Mississippi native and Southern Foodways Alliance member Laura Rhoman serves appropriately salty chicken fried to a golden, lacy crunch; morsels of juicy, cornmeal-crusted catfish; and the Country Captain, a lowcountry curried chicken dish with roots in the 18th century spice trade.
The creamy Anson Mills grits and tender collard greens are a must. Sometimes a visit to Muscadine means dodging a late-summer rain with pillow-shaped, powdered-sugar-tossed beignets and a bourbon-condensed milk coffee in the back room. Sometimes it means a perch at the bar for coffee, a mimosa, the Sunday paper and tender ham under coffee-spiked redeye gravy with poached eggs and grits.
And you might just learn something about Southern food along the way. Who makes Portland's best East African food? You could spend days cruising down Northeast Martin Luther King Junior Boulevard and North Killingsworth Street, stopping for bites of kitfo and misir wot, debating all the way.
How to Find That Book You've Spent Years Looking For
For me, the search ends at this happy husband-and-wife run Eritrean and Ethiopian restaurant, which took over the former home of Sok Sab Bai two years ago, mellowing the once purple and green walls with warm yellows and browns. The service is friendly, the spongy flatbread called injera is tangy and the vegetable and meat stews pair well with rivers of honey lemonade and wine.
Start with a platter of beyaynetu, a vegetarian combination of red and yellow spiced lentils, tender collard greens and the turmeric-stained folds of cabbage, potato and carrot known as atakilchi alicha. If you're a vegetarian, stop there, or maybe add an extra roll of injera and a side ayb, the fluffy farmhouse-style cheese. If you eat meat, add some fish, steak or bone-in chicken stewed in hot, earthy berbere spice. You won't find bavette steak, pork secreto or other cuts popular at modern chop houses in Portland. Instead, the restaurant stays on Main Street with juicy rib-eyes, filet mignon, thick pork chops and fat lobster tails, all seared to order and delivered with a smile and a fluffy baked potato.
A remodel added a little gloss while keeping the dark wood, dim lighting and famous sunken bar intact. Bananas Foster got a modern spin. But at its heart, Ringside remains a place where a beautifully blistered French onion soup comes in a little copper pan, where a simple rib-eye costs more than your monthly car insurance payment and where lobster can be added to your already ultra-rich mashed potatoes, especially if your boss is paying.
After opening not one but two great neighborhood restaurants, one with a pop-up space, deli and farmers market, changing the character of its Cully neighborhood along the way, what do you do next? What does that have to do with the price of beef in Portland?
Right now, that looks like a gorgeous pork chop with a healthy cap of luscious fat buried in a bed of rich polenta, good turnips and plenty of plump cherries. But the biscuits are crisp and flaky and come with honey butter. The smoky ham is paired with juicy peaches and romano beans. And the bourbon behind the rustic bar is fairly priced.
- The Second Amendment and Gun Control: Freedom, Fear, and the American Constitution (Controversies in American Constitutional Law).
- The Mirror of Literature, Amusement, and Instruction Volume 12, No. 337, October 25, 1828?
- Directions for Collecting and Preserving Insects;
- Featured Posts!
- Roasted Winter Vegetable Bowl.
- When Weakness Became Strength.
Who says you can't teach an anti-technology zealot new tricks? Ned Ludd — named for the original Luddite — keeps evolving, usually for the better.
The formula is simple: Chef Jason French and his team take quality produce, cook it with care in a wood-fired oven and serve it in a rustic Northeast Portland dining room filled with plants, copper pots and old-timey chandeliers. The fun is in the details.
My Life Is Murder
Our nicely charred grass-fed steak arrived a few stops past medium. After dinner, you might be tempted by a panna cotta or cremeux. Skip both in favor of the large, smoke-kissed chocolate chip cookie, which comes with a side of vanilla-scented milk for sipping or pouring straight into the cookie's sizzling skillet.