How-to-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins

The reader will find much in this third book in a trilogy of information on growing giant pumpkins. How-to-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins, III presents the.
Table of contents

There name describes them perfectly, but what it does not say is how destructive they are. They can cause the roots to become virtually nonexistent. Protection should start at the potting and transplanting stage. Dust the roots with insecticidal powder before potting into larger pots. When transplanting, dust the roots and surrounding area. Place a collar around the stalk to prevent airborne flies from landing on the root.

Downy Mildew and Alternaria are two common diseases. Downy Mildew can be controlled by a good fungicide and alternaria is prevented by clearing away dead foliage, and maintaining good air circulation through the plants. Cabbages are not complicated to feed, just make sure the fall preparation is done properly with plenty of well rotted manure.

The seedlings and potted plants do not need any special feed or compost until transplanting into the ground. If the heads are slow in developing, then a single high potash feed will help to kick start the plant. Select the most promising cabbage, and do not harvest them as normal. Leave them to keep growing until they eventually produce yellow flower heads the following year. In colder climates, the plant will have to be dug and brought inside, and then replanted in the spring. When the flowers die back and the pods start to turn brown and crispy, cut off the whole head and place in a net bag and hang it up to dry indoors.

After a couple of weeks, the seeds will all be dry. Remove them from the pods and store in a paper bag in a frost-free, dry environment. They will last up to 5 years if stored properly. It is possible to leave the stalk of your best cabbage in the ground, and it too will eventually go to seed.

Please note that cabbages will easily cross pollinate with others up to yards away. Insects transfer the pollen. So you must make sure that you do not have different varieties nearby going to seed. Remember also that F1 hybrids will revert back to their parents and may not turn out exactly the same as your original. It pays to check the viability of the seeds at this point for germination. Use a wet paper towel to test. In order to produce an exact copy of your prize winning cabbage, let the stalk produce mini cabbages. Cut these off and transplant them into 5 liter 1 gallon pots with rooting powder dusted on them.

To grow large cantaloupes, you need well drained soil. In the fall or early spring, prepare an area a minimum of 15' x 15' for each plant you plan on growing larger if you have the room. The best time to do this is in the fall, so that the soil can break down any amendments over the winter, though early spring is fine. The plants will eventually be trained to occupy a space of - square feet for best results. I add 2"-3" of 2-year-old, aged, horse manure; worked in with several bags of shredded leaves.

I also add 50 pounds of garden gypsum, which adds calcium needed for the large appetite that cantaloupes have for it. I add gypsum to everything I grow in my garden to keep my calcium levels up. My pH was 6. My average range of pH preference for most of my vegetables is 6. Gypsum adds valuable calcium while not effecting pH. So, if your pH is in the 6. Seed selection is very important in having the best possible chance to grow an award winning cantaloupe.

There are not as many places to obtain good seeds, because there are not as many people growing competitive cantaloupes as giant pumpkins and squash. These varieties are readily available, but seeds with better genetics can be purchased online from P and P Seed Company, and WorldClassGardening. I purchased a If you can find a grower that has grown giant cantaloupes, most likely he will give you a few seeds to get started.

Some gardening clubs and grower associations have them available as well. I use a mix without added fertilizer in it. Make sure your potting mixture is not too wet — it should be damp but light in your hand. I pot the seed then place a plastic bag over the top of the pot so that the top of the pot does not dry out too much.

I then place the pot on a heat mat that maintains the temperature between degrees. In days, the seeds should germinate, and I plan to have them outside 7 days after germination. Cantaloupes like it warm, so be sure your soil outside is warm before you start your seeds inside. You can use soil heating cables if you want to try to stretch the season. I dig an area 5' x 5' and 18" deep and prepare the planting hole for the transplant with a 40 pound bag of potting soil with fertilizer, 2 pounds of gypsum, and a 40 pound bag of aged manure compost.

The planting hole will give the roots lots of room to grow. The vines do not root at each leaf node as pumpkins do, so most of the nutrition comes from the crown or stump area of the plant. Once the plant is transplanted, I cover it with a small plastic greenhouse to protect it from the wind. I will leave it covered until it outgrows the protection. By then, it is strong enough to be on its own. When the plant covers about a 3' x 3' area, and has several vines coming directly from the stump or crown, I begin to train the vines, so I can more readily observe their growth.

I do not want the vines to be touching each other, which could cause powdery mildew. I want my fruit sets on one of the main vines or a strong secondary just off of the mains. Be sure the plant is covering at least a square foot area 10' x 10' , before selecting any fruit to grow on to competition. Be sure to keep the plant protected with fungicides and insecticides. Any sign of wilting could be a sign of plant disease and or rot. You can trim a few vines off as they grow to keep the plant under control and improve the movement of air through the vines. Fruit selection is very important, and you should select perfectly shaped fruit to start.

No lopsided, banana-shaped fruit that will probably split on the blossom end. You want a nice, fuzzy dark-green, bottle-shaped melon; and to keep that shape, you need to keep the soil moisture level up. I water a little everyday depending on weather. Mother nature plays a huge role in growing giant cantaloupes, and the warmer the weather, the better. They can gain 2 pounds a day under these conditions. Once I choose the melon to compete with, I place a board under it to keep it off the soil.

The board keeps the bottom of the melon dry, prevents the fruit from rotting, and keeps slugs or snails from damaging it. Drill a few drain holes in the board to help with drainage. I lay mill fabric over the board to further protect the fruit. Have someone carefully lift the melon while you check to see if it is dry. If there is moisture underneath, I dry it off with a rag. I lost a melon one year, which may have been over 60 pounds, that rotted on the ground. You can leave one on if you want the largest possible fruit, or leave on the plant and have some nice pound fruit to later harvest.

My 49 pound fruit was one of 5 fruit on the plant, but it was the first melon set.

How-To-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins by Don Langevin

The others were set weeks later after the 49 was well on its way. Shading the melon can help keep it from getting burned from the sun. This variety normally grows only days, but good protection may extend this time. As the melon grows, you will need to move it every few days to keep the stem from "kinking" and restricting its growth. Once the plant has filled the area allotted to it, and the melons are growing well, I give the plant some organic fish and seaweed fertilizer to feed the plant and push the fruit. I drench every days. Growing giant carrots is more about skilful gardening than the genetics of the seed.

That is why Joe regularly wins prizes at all the major shows. Very few people understand how carrots can get so big. It is often erroneously said that several carrots are growing together. This could not be further from the truth. In essence, the carrot's root is stunted when still a seedling, and then plenty of care is given to the plants that are grown under cover and in raised beds.

The seed variety most used is Flakee and it is available from many seed suppliers. The year starts in October with the digging of soil into raised beds to a depth of one spade, and then left to over winter to let the rain wash out any salts that may have accumulated. In December, I prepare the pots for the seeds.

I use a 7" pot and remove the base with a knife, because the pot will used upside down. I then cover a heated bench in a greenhouse, or warm cloche, with 1" of seed starter mix. Place the pots upside down onto the bench, and fill them with sieved pot mix. Within 10 days, the seeds will start to germinate and break through the media. As soon as they show the first true leaf, thin them out to just 2 seedlings per pot. One week later, choose the best in each pot and thin the rest. Leave the single seedling per pot to grow on until March. About the end of February, cultivate the final beds and cover the soil with clear polythene to warm it for planting.

During the first week in March, dig holes in the bed to twice the width of the pots. Take a piece of plywood and slide each pot off the bench onto it to facilitate moving without disturbing the roots. Similarly, slide the pots off the plywood into the newly dug holes. Give a sprinkling of super phosphate around the pot and fill the surrounding hole with just a little soil. Then, raise the pot and fill in some more soil. Continue until the carrot plant is completely surrounded by soil. Water well and cover the area with a polythene sheet suspended above the plants, to keep them warm.

In April, or when the weather starts to warm up, remove the polythene cover and water when needed. At the end of April it will be time for the first feeding. Use a half-strength Chempak No3 liquid feed Do not use full strength; too much feed will split the growing carrots. Feed the plants once a week at half-strength until harvest. Inspect plants for bugs and diseases and treat accordingly.

A common pest is red spider mite. They take 8 months to grow Likes free-draining light, sandy loam Soil pH should be in a range of 6 - 7. Seed Varieties The popular variety used to grow giant carrots is Flakee. It originated in Holland and produces very large carrots. If this variety is difficult to obtain, then select the largest type available with a broad shoulder. The technique of growing is more important than the variety. Or, treat with SB Plant Invigorator see appendix. Joe Atherton has attained many world records and the parsnip is one of them.

The method he uses is quite straight forward but has an unusual procedure — he breaks the tap root at the right time so that the parsnip grows many tap roots, each of which will feed the main root. Good soil preparation, gentle feeding, and growing under cover are the basis for his methods. It is important to protect the plants in the early part of the year in order to extend the growing season. Joe's greenhouse has removable sides, so maximum ventilation is created for summer cooling.

Parsnips prefer cool temperatures, and growth can slow during summer heat. His greenhouse has raised beds 2' high x 3' wide filled with soil to the John Innes recipe No. If Joe uses soil from a previous crop, then he flushes it with water to remove salts. Alternatively, he opens up his greenhouse to winter's wrath.

The year starts in January by digging out raised beds. Before the soil is replaced, 8" diameter by 18" long tubes are placed in the beds to give 4 sq. The soil is then earthed up to the top of the tubes and left to settle. Later he fills the tubes with the following finely sieved mix: Then, he slides out the tubes and fills the holes with his sieved mix to the same level as the bed.

At the end of January, it's time to sow the seeds. He uses the cardboard inner tubes of rolls of toilet paper. The tubes are placed in 3" pots and filled with the above mix. He supports the filled tubes by partly filling the pot to about a third of its height. He starts more tubes than he needs to allow for losses. Within 2 to 3 weeks, the seedlings will appear. He places a few slug pellets on each tube to deter slugs when the seedlings are at there most vulnerable. When the first true leaf appears, he thins out the seedlings to one per tube.

Keep the soil moist and grow on until the tap root can be seen extending from the tube. If they are showing, he buries the tubes in the prepared holes in his raised beds, then covers with polythene. He cuts holes in the polythene to allow the plants to grow above the bed cover. He then waters the transplants gently and keeps them just moist through the remainder of the season — never allowing the soil to dry out.

By the end of March, it should be warm enough to remove the polythene covering from the beds. About six weeks after transplanting, towards the end of April, he starts feeding. It is important to only feed when the soil needs moisture — never feed when the soil is wet. Feed once a week through harvest.

Check for bugs like spider mites or green flies, and spray at their first sign with a suitable systemic insecticide. Do not over water or over feed because the parsnips will split. Moderate, continuous water and feed are the best way to grow parsnips — fluctuations in either will produce negative results. The parsnips should be ready to harvest at the end of August, but it is not advisable to lift them until a day before showing. Unearth them by hand to minimize damage to the roots — every part of the root counts in the total weight of the parsnip.

Wash off the dirt very slowly with a low pressure spray to start with, then higher pressure to fully clean and dislodge soil. If too much water is allowed over the roots, they may absorb it — causing the parsnip to split and end all your work — so take it slow and easy. Cut the greenery down to 2" initially, then at the show trim to 1".

Wrap the parsnip in a damp cloth and pack in a box to protect against damage. It is not generally advisable to collect your own seed, because the important part of growing parsnips is the growing technique and care — not the variety. Also, the best seeds are usually F1 hybrids, and the seed saved from them will not necessary have the same characteristics. Parsnip are biennial, so if you want to harvest your own seeds, take your best parsnip, dress any wounds with sulphur, place it on a bed of sand, and lightly cover it with peat. Leave it in a frost free area and keep it just moist, not wet.

When the parsnip starts to produce shoots, transplant it into the garden and let it grow. Allow plenty of room because it will grow into a very large bush. Collect the seed heads, and dry them off by hanging them up in a paper bag or pillow case in a warm place. Strip the seeds off when dry and store in a paper bag. Parsnip seeds have a very short germination life, so keep them for no more than 2 years. Stood tubes in 3" pots partly filled with compost to support. Peter Glazebrook won with world record of 5. Peter has mastered the art of growing long carrots and has obtained a world record to prove it.

His longest ever carrot reached 17' 3" and set a world record, since surpassed. The body of the carrot is relatively normal in size about 18" long but the attached root can be several feet long. To most people, the long carrot is a disappointment, because they expect it to be big as well as long.

But, to make a carrot extra long, you need to encourage the root to grow and not its body. This is the clever part of growing long carrots, and Peter goes to great lengths to achieve it. Just look at his setup to the left. It's a work of art on its own. Essentially, the carrot is grown in an elevated drainpipe and watering is controlled in such a way as to encourage the root to follow the water. The seed variety is not terribly important because it's the skill of the grower that counts — not the genetics of the seed — like many other giant vegetables.

But, Peter does prefer the following varieties: Watson's Select Long carrot. He is always experimenting with different varieties, but it is a very long process to prove which seed will do the best. Also, how many pipes can you have up the side of your house? Before embarking on his method of growing long carrots, you will need a SE to SW facing wall in full sun that can support pipes up to 21' long.

In the early days, Peter would simply clip the pipes to the wall and scale the height with his ladder. But now he has built a structure that makes growing easier and safer. Also, the small greenhouse built at the top makes for better control of the growing environment. This must be done when the pipes are in their upright position, watered, then left to settle, and then topped up as required to within a 1" of the top with more of the mixture.

Start 3 seeds in the center of each pipe, cover lightly, water, and seal with a plastic bag to prevent soil from drying out. Carrots are slow to germinate, and will take between 14 to 21 days to appear. As soon as they show, remove the plastic bags to let in air.

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A week later, thin to the best, two seedlings. After another week, thin to leave just one seedling per tube. The remainder of the season is all about watering, ventilating, feeding, and nurturing. Watering little and often is the secret. Check daily, but only water enough to keep the soil moist. This can be done with the aid of a small watering can. With regard to pests and diseases, Peter does very little except manage the ventilation and paint his top surround with creosote to discourage aphids.

The final stage involves inspecting the pipes. It's best not to water a few days before opening so as to dry out the compost in the pipes. Bring the pipes down carefully and place on a level surface. Remove the tape and open, then carefully remove the carrot from the compost. The main root is normally visible in the compost. Allow the compost to dry out slightly and then carefully tease away the carrot and gingerly remove the long root — working your way down the pipe.

Coil the long root in a large box with newspaper laid between the successive coils, then head for the show. Watsons Select Long and 2 pipes with St. Valery Long, then covered pipe tops with polythene bags.

Transporting long carrots to the show is a precarious business. Their delicate nature means that one false move and all is over. It takes a brave person to risk 6 months of work. They must be kept moist to stop any brittleness. Joe Atherton wisely leaves this task to his wife. I may try it next year. The carrot is measured from the shoulder to the tip. The world record stands at 19' 2". Peter's rig is very elaborate, but if you do not have a house wall that suits the needs, then long rooted vegetables can be grown in tubes attached to the side of a fence at an angle of about 30 degrees.

They are grown in the same way, but if you cannot provide top protection, delay sowing until April. For parsnips and beetroots, the growing method is the same as for carrots. The only difference is the seed. A standard, off the shelf, seed variety is quite adequate, like Picador F1 described as having a long tapering root, smooth skin, and excellent resistance to canker. Medwyn Williams is a good supplier of this variety. Again, like the parsnip and carrot, it has more to do with the grower than the genetics of the seed; but of course the seed does have some influence.

Peter uses Robinsons Mammoth Long which is described as long and slender with dark flesh. In , Peter grew a world record long beet which measured Pick a reasonably sunny site for the place where the plants will grow to maturity. Then, prepare the soil correctly in advance of transplanting seedlings. Cauliflowers need soil that has been left to settle and digest any amendments added, so leave several months between digging and planting.

Dig over your soil removing any stones you find and work in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost. Tread on the soil to remove any air pockets and make the surface very firm. Do not fork over the surface before planting the seedlings — tread down gently, rake lightly, and remove any surface rubbish. Cauliflowers will fail if the soil is too acidic, so aim for a pH of 6 to 7.

Cauliflower seeds can be planted in a seedbed or in pots indoors, then transplanted into their garden location. When seedlings have their first true leaf, transplant to pots. Once the plants have leaves, transplant them to their final growing positions, spaced at least 75 cm 30" apart. If you start seeds in seed beds outside, water the seed bed the day before transplanting, and carefully lift the seedlings with as much soil as possible around their roots — placing them in prepared holes.

Set the seedlings at the same level as in the seedbed, then pack soil firmly around their roots. Protect seedlings from birds with netting. The secret of success is steady uninterrupted growth. From transplanting time onwards, they need continuous watering. If checked at any time, they will begin to form heads. Mulch the soil around the plants three weeks after planting, then drench. Replace mulch as it deteriorates, and pull all weeds. Cauliflower grow slowly over a long period of time, so avoid rapid growth. If manure has been added, no additional fertilizer is needed prior to planting.

Cauliflower is a cool season vegetable that may be considered a challenge to those who haven't learned its secrets.

It is a crop that needs both correct soil and climatic requirements. It is best grown so that it will mature in the fall. Any delay in growth will encourage the plants to prematurely form a small head. In order to avoid this, the soil should be high in organic matter so that it will hold moisture. It must also be very fertile. So, using a great deal of well composted manure is a must. If started early inside, cauliflower plants should be about 6 weeks old when set in the field. Cauliflower plants are grown in much the same way as cabbage plants.

Set the plants 4' apart. The plants should be set in the spring about 10 days after it is safe to set the earliest cabbage. The plants should be watered when transplanted to prevent wilting. Severe shock to plants at transplanting time often causes poor head development. Work a quart of chicken manure into the soil around each plant 3 weeks after setting out the plants and again a month later.

Curds may "yellow" if they receive too much sun, so protect the heads by using the plant's leaves to shade the curds. When the curd reaches about 3" in size, secure leaves with soft string, a rubber band, or a clothes pin. A few varieties are self-blanching, meaning the leaves curl over the curd naturally.

When harvesting, cut in the early morning when the plant is freshest, ideally with dew on it. During frosty weather however, it is better to wait till the warmest part of the day. Cut through the stalk close to ground level with a sharp knife, leaving enough leaves around the curd to protect it. Unlike some brassicas, the cauliflower will not produce worthwhile shoots after its head has been cut, so clear the remains of the crop after cutting.

Some of the best cauliflower varieties are: The world record was set in by Allan Hattersley of the UK at 54 lb 3 oz. Kevin and Gareth are major players in the giant vegetable arena in the UK and exhibit a wide range of vegetables. Their names are frequently seen on tables as prize-winners. Kevin and Gareth are the sons of Mike Fortey, one of the legendary growers and pioneers of the giant vegetable growing movement. They helped their father from a young age and were taught how to grow and maintain a wide variety of flowers and vegetables.

They gained considerably knowledge from their father until his death in Then, they realized how much more there is to learn, so in their father's memory, soldiered on to reach exceptional horticulture standards. They have won many top prizes and made several TV appearances. Though, they have never grown a world record. The brothers are very competitive in there growing, and they share with us their way to grow giant celery.

They manage to grow celery to the ridiculous size of 16 kilos over 35 lb. The celery is grown in a polythene tunnel in order to control the growing environment. The seed used by Kevin and Gareth is one that their father nurtured over the years and is not generally available.

But, the Ideal and Giant Red celery varieties are very good for growing giants. Prepare the ground in October by adding plenty of well rotted manure — about one wheelbarrow load per square yard, then dig it in. Leave this to over winter. Three weeks before the celery is ready for planting, add to the bed a dressing of Vitax Q4 5. About the middle of January, start the seeds off in a seed tray full of good seed compost.

Moisten the media, then sprinkle with seed and lightly press down. Full light is required to germinate. Remove from the propagator as soon as they have germinated and place in good light at room temperature. After 2 weeks, thin out the weak seedlings. When they reach 3" in height, pot them up into 3" pots with 3 parts Levingtons F2 see appendix mixed with 1 part fine vermiculite and keep warm. Levingtons F2 compost is peat based with a small amount of fertilizer. Leave them to grow, keeping them moist at all times.

Set out plants 3'-4' apart and thoroughly water. As the plants start to grow, start feeding them with Vitax once a week to start with, and then twice a week as they gain in size. Also, give them a top dressing with peat and Vitax Q4 5. To keep the nitrogen level high enough, spray with Foliar Vitax twice a week. Keep watering and feeding twice a week until one month before the shows, then change the feed to Vitax Remove any decaying leaves to minimize heart rot and other diseases.

The roots are very large and need a lot of room to grow, so a light well drained soil is a basic requirement. Like cabbages, it requires calcium and lots of manure. Mulching is essential to keep the large roots moist Celery can burn sensitive skin — so handle with care. Cut growth down to 6", potted up and placed in semi-heated greenhouse. To save the seed of your best celery, cut the stems off at 6" above the main root ball. Dig and pot up into a large pot with a mix of soil and peat.

Keep in a semi heated greenhouse over winter to allow the plant to gain a deep root base. The seed head will come up around January or February and this will need help to pollinate. This can be done by gently shaking the stems daily. Around May or June the seed heads can be harvested.

Place them in a bag and hang up in an airing cupboard or somewhere warm.

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Leave for about two weeks, then collect the seed and store in an airtight container. Keep the seeds in a cool place. Start by digging a trench about 60 cm 2 foot wide, and one spit spade depth deep of topsoil half way across the bed, place this soil onto the ground outside of the bed - placing it on a sheet of plastic or a board will protect the ground. Use a fork to fork over the subsoil to the depth of the fork prongs.

If turf was removed from the bed, put some into the subsoil grass side down and break it up with the spade. If no turf was removed, add some other organic material - well rotted manure, garden compost, or similar. Stepping backwards, dig another 60cm 2 foot trench of topsoil and put this onto the top of the subsoil and turf mix in the first trench, break up the topsoil and remove any large stones, roots, weeds, etc.

Repeat breaking up the subsoil in the new trench, putting in the turf or other organic material, covering with topsoil from the next trench, removing large stones, weeds etc until you reach the end of the bed. Now moving to the other side of the bed, dig out a similar 60cm 2 foot trench of topsoil and put it in the last trench on the first side. When you reach the large trench, fill it in using the topsoil retained from the very first trench. Level off the whole bed using a rake. Growing corn for height is a popular competition staged at agricultural shows.

The rules are simple - the height of the corn stalk is laid out on the ground and measured for accuracy from roots to tassels. There are many varieties thousands of different types of corn. Some kinds of corn are short, even 2'-3' at maturity. Most corn used as grain is in the 6'-8' range with some getting to 10'' with the correct amounts of fertilizer, sunlight, water, and temperature during the growing season. Many kinds of corn grown for ensilage or silage where the whole stalk is used, not just the grain ear are routinely 14'', or even 18' tall; because the intent is to have more mass to use as feed since corn is a grass, think of it like really tall hay.

Some tropical varieties from Mexico and Peru, like Jala Maize, will easily grow to 20' by themselves, or taller if they are given special care for competitive "tall corn" contests. Don Radda from Washington, Iowa won the State Fair, tall corn contest every year from the 's to the 's. It's one of the tallest varieties of maize in the world, and it also produces the longest ears at around 2', with cobbs about 18" long. Jala does not always produce ears, especially with taller plants.

There is quite a bit of variation with this variety. I'm able to get these heights because Jala is photosensitive, and will keep on growing until we get short daylight days. I believe this is the variety that was used to produce the current world record. There are other giant varieties of corn out there, such as Mexican June White, which generally gets about ft tall. There is a temperate corn named Goliath Silage that also produces some tall plants with large ears. Goliath produced an Iowa State Fair record at 18' 4". I didn't seriously grow giant plants until There are people out there with a lot more experience than I have.

Every year, I learn a little bit more. Someday I may even get a world record or two. Julie Zieser, Radda's daughter and her husband, Wayne, agree no one will ever beat his record. The Ziesers live and farm Radda's land, where he grew his tall corn. You wouldn't find too many people who would put that much time and effort into something like this," Wayne says. He did die too young we feel. Radda died in at age For the past 30 years, there was talk around the town of what to do to honor him. The talk became reality when a metal sculpture, created by Tom Evans with Evans Welding, was erected at the Washington County Fairgrounds.

The plans became reality with the help of the city's Chamber of Commerce, the county fair board and the county tourism committee. To this day, I can't come to Washington without someone mentioning something about my dad," Julie explains. The county tall corn contest eventually was canceled in the s because Radda would win every year.

Later on, history was repeated when the Ziesers won the contest repeatedly. Life today is a lot more complicated, farming is just so busy. I think the following year, he had a ton entry. He didn't have Bt corn, the built-in traits, or the crop-protection advantages that we have today. He wanted to be the best, and he knew he could be," she says. The world record holder for giant cucumbers is Alf Cobb. Unbelievably, at the time of writing this book, he is 93 and getting ready for his fourth consecutive world record attempt.

Alf is almost deaf, but he knows how to grow cucumbers. His heaviest to date is 27 lb His method of growing is straight forward and not complicated. The key is doing the right things at the right time. Alf rises at 5 am and waters his crops from water pumped from a well. His garden is only ' away from a river. His soil, which is fairly sandy, has been influenced by the flood deposits of this river.

Alf grows his cucumbers inside poly tunnels on 6" raised beds filled with sandy, loam, garden soil, peat moss, leaf mold, and manure. The origin of Alf's seed for heavy cucumbers is the variety, Zeppelin, which was originally given to him by Benard Lavery. There are a few seed suppliers who still carry Zeppelin. Select only the best looking seeds, and pot them up into 5" plastic pots using a good multi-purpose compost such as Arthur Bowers see appendix. Alf's year starts in October when he removes the soil from his tunnels and replaces it with fresh soil from his garden.

To this he adds 1"-2" of leaf mold made from cherry and apple tree leaves plus 2" of farmyard manure. It is all dug in, watered, and left to nature to get the soil working over winter. It is important to keep the soil moist so as to encourage bacteria and micro-organism creation that break down the ingredients into plant useable nutrients. In early spring, generous amounts of leaf mold and well rotted manure are added to the soil again, and lightly forked into the top few inches. He keep the tunnels watered to produce a more productive, "living soil.

Place them in a propagator or heated green house. Alf prefers to use the 5" pots because he says, "It saves disturbing the roots and makes sure they are not checked when transplanting. Alf made his own mini propagator within his greenhouse. The propagator is a thermostatically controlled fan heater which blows over a bucket of water. This keeps the humidity high, which is ideal for cucumbers. The seedlings stay in the propagator for a month before being transplanted.

Around the first week in May, the plants are set out in the poly tunnel at 3' apart. At this point, he prepares a 5' high frame with 6' canes for support. Water the transplants lightly but regularly. As soon as the plants start to grow above the 2' mark, feed them with a half-strength, diluted, high nitrogen solution with an NPK ratio like Tie the vines as they grow at regular intervals, and remove all secondary vines.

Giant Pumpkins How to Grow

One vine is required so that all the energy goes into the production of one fruit. Weed and feed every 7 days, and as the year progresses, feed every 4 days. Give the plants a once-a-month treatment of Epsom salts Magnesium sulphate. Do not let any cucumbers set until July, or they will be over ripe for the shows in September.

Also, do not let any fruit develop unless it is at least a meter high, otherwise it will touch the ground and spoil. Delaying fruit set will encourage a strong root system. It is important to keep the bugs at bay by regular spraying with a good insecticide. Do not forget to spray under the leaves as well as on top. As the cucumbers start to put on weight, select the best and thin out all the others leaving only one per vine. Support the cucumber at its end with a hammock and securely tie the stem to the supports.

Failure to do this can cause the cucumber to break off. Unlike most cucumber growing it will not be necessary to assist in pollination nor do you need to remove any flowers. Just let the bees do what they do best. Alf waters his plants every other day at 5 am. The water he uses is pumped up from a well in his garden. This may have some positive effects on growth since it contains minerals and maintains a constant temperature.

Cucumbers love humidity, so spraying the ground surrounding the plants in the morning helps to keep it high. Do not water the leaves during the heat of the day as they will burn. Well head with pump. Pick your best fruit, choosing either the heaviest or the longest according to the show. Cut the stem to 1" long and wrap the fruit in a clean damp cloth. They are fairly hardy, but take no risks by transporting in a box. Allow the cucumber to fully ripen — it will become soft but not rotten.

Split open lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Place them on paper towels and leave to dry naturally. Store in paper envelopes. The growing of massive leeks is a hobby developed by the mining community in Alisa Craig, an island off the coast of the UK. It is also the national emblem of Wales. The tradition, secrets, and techniques have been passed down through many generations. But, Joe is happy to pass on his world record growing method and says, "If you beat me, then you're a better grower than I.

Joe is only 5' tall and has the face of a mischievous teenager. But, what Joe has in abundance is the will to succeed, skill, and dedication. He leaves nothing to chance. He analyses his soil, measures light intensity, temperature, and humidity, and is meticulous about all his procedures and feeding programs. Behind every good gardener is a good woman, and Joe's wife is no exception.

He actually trusts his wife more than himself in unearthing delicate long carrots. Leeks originate from ancient Egypt and have been grown successfully for hundreds of years in cooler climates. The northern parts of Britain are a few degrees cooler than the south, and hence, a preferred location to grow them.

Leeks are biennial plants that can reproduce in three different ways — seeds, pips, and grasses. The best chance of success is to allow the leek to go to seed, and then harvest one of the three. Seeds will not necessarily reproduce copies. Some people sow these seeds and select potential leeks, but this is very time consuming and risky. Pips come from the seed head and look like small pearls. These are genetically the same as the plant.

Grasses are like miniature leeks growing out of the flower head. These are also genetically the same as the plant, and this is what Joe uses. All three can also be obtained from reputable suppliers. Joe uses a variety called Wilton, but a number of other seeds, pips, or grasses can be obtained from competitive growers. The leeks are grown in polythene covered raised beds, which are reworked every 3 years. In the autumn, I cultivate the top 18" of the soil and send a sample to be analysed. After adding what has been recommended by the soil analyst, I hoe it in, water, and leave it to breakdown over the winter.

Around mid-March, I decide where the leeks are going to grow. They need at least a clear space of 12" all the way around to let the roots grow properly. Dig a hole in each chosen place for a 10" pot, or the same size pot as the leeks are in. I bury a similar empty pot, and cover the whole bed with clear polythene to heat it up. I sprinkle the seeds onto a tray full of good quality seed compost. It needs to be at least 3" deep.

Water the compost so that it is moist but not wet.

How to Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins III

Control the moisture level and ventilate to prevent damping off. After about 10 days, the seedlings will appear. When seedlings have there first true leaf, which is the third visible leaf, then they are ready to transplant into pots. Water, and leave on a heated bench for about a week.

Do not pick the grasses off the seed head until they are ready.


  • How-to-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins.
  • How-to-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins III.
  • World Class Gardening - How-to Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins I.

Give them a gentle pull to check. When they are ready, place the whole head in a bucket of fungicide for 24 hours. The following day, the grasses should fall out by themselves. Select the best grasses and pot them into 3" pots with an equal mix of Levingtons M3 and M2. When seedlings are 1 week old, turn on growlights to supplement day light. Lights should be on for 8 hours in late October starting at 8 am. As time goes by, increase the growlight hours by 15 minutes per week to match natural sunlight. I repot whenever roots appear at the bottom of the pot. Spray regularly with insecticide to control pests such as red spider mites, aphids, and thrips — usually once every 2 weeks starting in May.

Cut a hole in the polythene sheet above the buried pots. Remove the buried pot and tap out the leek from its pot. Place carefully into its new home and water thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not soaking wet. If needed, start supporting the leaves to prevent them from touching the soil; which will help prevent diseases such as mold and botrytis from starting.

On cold nights, cover the plants to protect. Add fertilizer as suggested by the soil analyst. It is important not to add all the fertilizer in one go for this may cause the roots to burn. Water little and often to keep the soil moist. Look for pests and diseases and spray accordingly, but remember to do it when it is cool and overcast. Look for any signs of disease such as fusarium rot, and remove the plant and any surrounding soil to prevent it from spreading.

Destroy the plant and dispose of the soil. Do not put it on the compost heap, or you will further propagate the disease. If you intend to eat any of the leeks, do not spray within 3 weeks to allow the pesticides to dissipate. If the weather is hot, consider shading the plants to keep them cool. As the leeks grow, cover the stem with tubing to promote stem growth. One week before the show, measure the leeks and select the best. The best way to do this is to use a non metallic tape measure. Measure around the stem's circumference. Circumference is a good indicator of weight — the bigger the circumference, the heavier the leek.

Dig your best leeks with a fork and remove any dirt with a water spray. Weigh them, and place the heaviest in a bucket containing 3" of water. Keep them in the bucket for transportation. At the show, weigh them as soon as possible to prevent weight loss. Light is on for entire daylight period. Placed them in a bucket containing 3" water. This is a soil borne disease that manifests itself as brown patches. Usually caused by over watering and over applying nitrogen.

A common problem when trying to push your plants. There is no cure and fusarium will stay in the soil if it is not sterilized. They are tiny, mm insects with thin, feathery wings. Most thrips feed on plants, but some species are predatory on other small arthropods. Feeding injury often appears as sunken, silvery patches on leaf surfaces. Prevention is easier than cure, so spray regularly with a good systemic insecticide.

Plant-feeding thrips develop from eggs through several immature stages to a papal stage, then emerge as adults. Eggs are laid on leaf tissue, larvae feed on leaves, and the pupae stage often occurs off the plant in the soil. There are multiple generations of thrips each year, so populations can build rapidly to damaging levels. The generation time from egg to egg can be as little as two weeks. A minute red spider mite will turn the leaves white.

Prevent with insecticide, increase ventilation to keep cooler, or treat with SB Plant Invigorator see appendix. You may need to spray repeatedly to kill the eggs. Aphids are a most destructive plant eating insect that thrives on young growth. The explosion in the number of growers gathering information via the internet, either through website information, or through open forums with other growers via message boards, has become a major accelerator in the learning curve of all growers.

Seed auctions, message boards, and a site devoted entirely to maintaining a database of pumpkin genetic backgrounds, all contribute to a shortening of the time it takes to succeed in this sport. I would be remiss if I did not spend the time to write about these valuable resources, and convey any new discoveries to you. If you want to grow a world record giant pumpkin, you will find much in this book to to help you.

Read more Read less click to open popover Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1 This shopping feature will continue to load items. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support? Learn more about Amazon Prime. The reader will find much in this third book in a trilogy of information on growing giant pumpkins. New ideas about plant size and pruning strategies throw a whole new light on the grower with only a small area to devote to giant pumpkins.

New discoveries involving the use of considerably more calcium in feeding programs, a steadily growing consensus on the use of nitrogen, the beginnings of a real effort at applying genetic theory in pollination strategies, how-to select the best seed, and the controversial subject of genetic manipulation, all required an airing-out here. Read more Read less. Customers who viewed this item also viewed.

Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1. Customers who bought this item also bought. Related Video Shorts 0 Upload your video. Try the Kindle edition and experience these great reading features: Share your thoughts with other customers. Write a customer review. Read reviews that mention giant pumpkins grow pumpkin growing growers. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. I'm used to last editions to having all the previous editions information and new.

I was sorely disappointed not to have gotten growing prep and information in this book. Now I have to buy others. Clearly a money making decision that makes me mad! Continuance of classic books, necinfo. One person found this helpful. Am having a Great time with them. Kindle Edition Verified Purchase. The pumpkins are now my pets. I work them everyday.. You getta watch growth everyday! Book does not give you what you need to grow the pumpkin. You have to order the other books to get the information needed.

It's like a mystery novel that has several volumes to find out who done it, you need all the books to get the lessons needed to grow these massive pumpkins. It's more of a photo album of the top growers than anything else.