Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance

Self-Coached Climber has ratings and 22 reviews. Kiri said: This is Read saving Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance.
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Although I have not yet practiced the skills in a deliberate fashion, just having read the book has given my climbing a boost. The stuff about body positioning, using the legs to begin movement, and controlling the center of gravity is very useful. I would have liked a longer chapter about the mental game, but as a friend of mine said, that's what the book "The Rock Warrior's Way" is for.

Dec 08, lehaleha rated it it was amazing. Nov 11, Peter House rated it it was amazing. The Self-Coached Climber is a thorough and extensive book with a rich variety of practical exercises and drills for climbers. In addition, the authors include facts and reference peer-reviewed studies as they progress through each chapter. And if the authors broached a topic on the edge of our understanding, such as the utility of campus boards and syst The Self-Coached Climber is a thorough and extensive book with a rich variety of practical exercises and drills for climbers.

And if the authors broached a topic on the edge of our understanding, such as the utility of campus boards and system walls in training, they said exactly that.


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The book includes sample training plans and a training DVD. May 25, Rasoul Emadi rated it liked it. Jan 20, Todd rated it it was amazing. Essential guide to self improvement.

Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance by Dan Hague

Feb 21, Angela Corcoran rated it it was amazing. Like most technique and training books, the worth is in the utility of the exercises and how effective they are. This book presents a model of climbing movement that is both technical in it's treatment of physiology and practical in a relatively simple model of balance and efficiency of motion. First the author describes what he considers the main components of climbing, beginning from the simple concepts of balance, force, space, and time.

From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specifi Like most technique and training books, the worth is in the utility of the exercises and how effective they are. From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specific, leading to a discussion of specific movements a climber will preform on the rock.

His main tool for visualizing climbing motion is the climbers center of gravity relative to a "base of support" formed by the other contact points with the wall. To the degree you can keep you center of gravity low, and base of support large, you will feel increased stability and less demand on the hands to pull your body into balance. The base of support metaphor is pretty good, and does suggest the forces acting on a climber. What makes the model practical is that it can be felt by a climber by paying attention to the direction of force on their body and thus learn to precisely that control of force to move in the direction they want as efficiently as possible.

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The book presents specific activities a climber can to do become more aware of their movement. Further activities for training as also discussed. Overall I'd very much recommend this as a climbing technique book. Also try to get the DVD, to help visualize the content. Oct 15, Rory Armstrong rated it it was amazing.

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A really good training book. I've read Dave Mcleod's 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes which is also good. However, it is more a book for someone who's in a rut and needs motivation. This book however excels at giving pratical advise on how a climber can improve there training. This is done through more than 30 activities that focus on all aspects of training from movement skills, endurance both anerobic and aerobic , strength, and power. The authors also offer a method of constructin A really good training book.

The authors also offer a method of constructing a basis of current conditioning and schedule for training that.


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The writing is well researched and well written. I can feel the knowledge of the authors and the authority of there ideas. Diffently a keeper to reference and great for climber looking for useful activities for individual weaknesses they've discovered but still wondering how to correct them as there is bound to be something in here to assist in that!

Jan 03, Jake McCrary rated it it was amazing Shelves: This book is full of great training advice. The book contains various drills to improve all facets of your climbing; movement, footwork, mental, emotional, anaerobic and aerobic systems.

Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance

With training frequency suggestions and suggested schedules this book tells you everything you'd need to know to improve your climbing technique. I'm hoping to take some of what this book suggests and apply it to the time I'm able to spend climbing. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel whil This book is full of great training advice. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel while climbing and what type of routes I'm working on in order to try to identify weaknesses and strengths.

I'd recommend this book to people who are serious about wanting to dedicate time to improving their climbing. If all goes as planned I expect that I'll be referring back to this book over and over again over the next few months. Feb 20, Tomek rated it it was amazing. I rate this book 5 stars not for myself, but for others. In my opinion, if you are only going to read a single book on training for climbing, this is the one you should read. Hague and Hunter clearly explain the physiological principles of movement; balance; and strength, power, and endurance. They then layout specific exercises that will help you improve those skills.

They even delve into mental training and developing a holistic training program. There are more specialized books which explain I rate this book 5 stars not for myself, but for others. There are more specialized books which explain certain concepts more fully eg RCTM for physical training and Maximum Climbing for mental training , but the authors of SCC do a perfectly adequate job for most beginners. Furthermore, advanced climbers can also benefit from this book, as the first section on movement and balance is invaluable and quite unique.

Jan 11, Motus rated it it was amazing. Just like the title says: If you're a climber who wants to improve his climbing game, yet have no-one to tech you how to actually climb better yes climbing gyms are full of jerks , then this book is for you. It has everything from explaining every climbing move, describing the situation when to use them, and drills to make those moves your second nature.

Then it steps up a notch teaching you how to send harder routes, and then gives you training program depending on the Just like the title says: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance. Description "Still the best book on improving at climbing Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.

For more information go to: Product details Format Paperback pages Dimensions People who bought this also bought. Training for Climbing Eric van der Horst. Make or Break Dave MacLeod. Conditioning for Climbers Eric van der Horst. Alone on the Wall Alex Honnold. Climb with Power Sean Mapoles. Trad Climber's Bible John Long. Rock Climbing Anchors Craig Luebben. Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt. The White Spider Heinrich Harrer. Training for the New Alpinism Steve House. Learning to Fly Steph Davis. Better Bouldering John Sherman. The Bond Simon Mccartney.

Conquistadors of the Useless Lionel Terray. Avalanche Essentials Bruce Tremper. Shorter Walks in the Dolomites Gillian Price. Into Thin Air Jon Krakauer. Logical Progression Steve Bechtel. Lonely Planet Nepal Paul Stiles.

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